Sewing Dictionary

Is a small & tight edging stitch; similar to overlock stitch.

A bias cut strip of fabric used to bind seams and edges of garments.

A hem which is invisible either hand sewn or made by a machine with a hemmer attachment.

Narrow plastic strips stitched into seams to support bodices.

A buttonhole made with fabric.

A width of fabric stitched to the garment to enable a cord or tie to be threaded through.

Hand stitched chain made with cotton thread used for belt loops.

A frill which is cut as a circle to give a full and fluid appearance without gathers

The band that the collar is attached to, eg mens shirts.

A draped neckline with folds of fabric.

Marked on pattern, used to shape garments over bust and hips etc.

A sleeve design. Very wide at the top without an actual armhole and slimming down to a small opening at the wrist or arm.

Marked on pattern to indicate where the stitch line finishes. Often 2cm past the drill hole to leave a soft even finish.

Distributes fullness of fabric without tucks.

A stitch very close to the edge of seam or garment, used to keep piece flat also as a feature.

The amount of fabric needed for the garment.

A pattern fabric piece which is usually fused to neaten the cut edges of necks, waists etc

A flat seam used on jeans for extra strength

A concealed opening used with zips for pants and skirts also with buttons on shirt and jackets

A seam stitched on the outside first, then turned to the wrong side and stitched again

A row of stitching on the correct side of the fabric close to the edge of the seam, this keeps the seam flat. Flat stitching is also known as understitching.

An interfacing that is ironed on to the fabric to keep shape

Two rows of large stitches sewn along the desired edge and pulled in to required length.

The tab on the sleeve opening of shirts.

A line marked on the pattern to show the direction of the fabric when cutting.

A metal hook with a metal eye sewn onto garment as a fastener often at the top of zips.

To add strength to fabrics when needed.

Use an overlocker or safety stitch machine for stretch jersey fabric.

Made by a keyhole machine used for coats.

Pleats folded in the one direction.

The part of the jacket that folds back onto itself and joins the collar.

A collar that stands up and encompasses the neck with the opening at the front.

Corners that are cut at right angles and bagged out to make clean edges.

Pile fabrics such as velvet have a nap, smooth one way and rough the other, cut pieces in the one direction

Markings on pattern which correspond between pattern pieces.

These are 2cm holes punched into cardboard pattern for the purpose of hanging.

An indication of how pattern pieces would be laid onto the fabric to reach estimate for cutting the garment

Metal tool for clipping out notch marks on pattern pieces.

A small collar with rounded edges.

The direction of the loop or yarn of the fabric running down the fabric eg: velvet.

Rows of fine tucks used as a feature, normally 3MM OR 1/8TH” wide.

A bias piece of fabric with or without cord stitched between two pieces of fabric.

A pattern piece for eg: the tab that is on a shirt.

Fabric folded back onto its self which forms pleats.

Larger sized patterns for a larger body.

A design line or seam that runs from the shoulder line down the body giving shape.

A technique of stitching a piece of wadding between two pieces of fabric and top stitching rows

A sleeve design that includes the shoulder with seams running from under the arms up towards the neckline

Also know as the lapel

Stitched with a heavy thread which is often contrasted

The woven edge on each side of the fabric. Small holes can indicate the selvedge as they often run along it

Large scissors used for cutting fabric and paper

Hat elastic wound onto the bobbin firmly with cotton thread through the needle. When stitching fabric it will gather up, known as shirring

These are vilene pieces that are stitched to noted areas to stop stretching – e.g. neck lines. Once the garment is completed these can be trimmed away

To press on top of the seams during the process of sewing the garment

A feature stitch on top of the seam on the outside of the garment often in a contrast coloured

Double rows of stitching approximately 5mm apart normally used as a feature

Pressing the garment intermittently as you go through the process of making the garment

Understitching is a line of stitching sewn close to the edge of a seam on the side of a lining or facing. Understiching works to secure the lining or facing to the seam allowance to keep it from rolling to the outside.

A non stick interlining

Tape with two sides that attaches to each other

The section of a garment. For shirts it can be seen at the cross back on the shoulder, and on skirts at the back between the waist and hip

Can be used as a feature or on seams if an overlocker is not available

For openings on garments