E T T A . K I D S & T E E N S . S K I R T

STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIAL

 

 

PATCH POCKETS & BACK SKIRT:

1. Neaten the top edge of the pockets.

2. Fold the top edge of the pocket over with wrong sides facing, following the fold line on the pattern.

3. From the correct side, sew a twin needle stitch along the top edge of pocket.

4. Fold the remaining three seams towards the inside and press.

5. From the correct side, sew a topstitch 6mm/¼” around the three edges of the pocket.

6. Pin the pockets to the top back pattern pieces, following markings. Once in place sew around the three outer edges with an edge stitch, securing each top corner.

7. With right sides facing sew the back yoke pieces to the back skirt pieces, matching the notches. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seams upward.

8. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and topstitch or twin-needle stitch on the yoke side, through the seam allowance.

9. With right sides facing sew the centre back seams together, taking care to match the yoke seam as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the right side.

10. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and topstitch or twin-needle stitch on the left side of the back seam, through the seam allowance.

FRONT SKIRT & FLY:

11. With right sides facing sew the front skirt to the front pocket along the curved pocket opening. Snip around the curved seam and press towards the pocket piece.

12. From the correct side of the fabric understitch around the pocket opening, on the side of the pocket pieces.

13. Press seam flat and topstitch around the pocket opening.

14. With right sides facing, fold and press the pocket in half, following the markings on the pattern. Sew along the bottom edge of the pocket and then neaten with overlocker/serger.

15. Stay stitch down the side seam and across the top, securing the pocket to the front skirt.

16. With overlocker/serger neaten the centre front seams of the front skirt pieces.

17. With right sides facing sew the centre seams of the front skirt pieces together, until the zip notch, marked on the pattern.

18. Fuse the fly facing and neaten the curved edge.

19. With right sides facing attach the fly facing to the right centre front skirt seam. Press seam towards the fly and from the correct side of the fabric understitch on the fly side.

20. Stitch the right side of the zip tape to the fly facing approximately 2cm (¾”) in from the seam edge. Ensure to only stitch on the fly facing.

21. With right sides facing fold the fly bearer in half lengthways, sew across the bottom edge. Turn back through to the right side and neaten the raw edges together with overlocker/serger.

22. Pin the left side of the zip to the overlocked edge of the fly bearer. Once in place stitch on, using a zipper foot if required.

23. With right sides facing sew the zip tape and fly bearer to the left centre front seam. Sandwiching the zip between the fly bearer and the left front seam. Turn to the right side and understitch close to the seam, on the side of the front.

24. Sew the front crotch seams together, up to the bottom of the zip.

25. With the zip closed and lying flat and sew a twin needle topstitch around the outer edge of the fly facing from the waist towards the crotch seam. Press the front crotch seam to the wearer right and sew a twin needle top stitch from the base of the fly to the lower crotch.

26. With right sides facing sew the front side seams to the back side seams. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press seam to the back.

27. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and topstitch or twin-needle stitch down the side seams through the seam allowance.

FRILL

28. With right sides facing sew the sides seams of the frill together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press seam to the back.

29. Sew two large rows of gathering stitch to the top of the skirt frill, draw in the gathering evenly to match the top of the skirt.

30. With right side facing pin the frill to the top skirt, matching side seams. Once in place sew together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press seam upwards. Top-stitch or twin-needle stitch, if desired.

36. With right sides facing sew the left waistband to the back waistband, along the side seam edges, matching notches, leaving a gap for the elastic to thread through. Press seams open.

37. With right sides facing sew the right waistband to the back waistband, along the side seam edges, matching notches, leaving a gap for the elastic to thread through. Press seams open.

38. With right sides facing fold the waistband in half lengthways. Sew down the two short edges of the waistband, clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.

39. With right sides facing attach the waistband to the top of the skirt. Press seam up, towards the waistband.

40. With overlocker/serger neaten the bottom edge of the waistband.

41. Fold and press waistband to the inside and pin down. Once in place, turn to the right side of the fabric and sew down with a sink stitch (stitch in the ditch).

42. Cut elastic to your personal length, and thread through the back waistband, securing at the side seam.

43. Edge stitch around the outer edges of the waistband.

44. With right sides facing fold the belt loop piece in half, stitch and turn out, press flat and sew a top stitch down each edge of the loops. Cut into 5 loops, 6.5 cm (2 ½”) long. Sew one edge of the belt loops to the top of one of the waistbands and the bottom to the skirt panel. (Not pictured, as this sample does not include belt loops.)

45. Neaten hem with overlocker/serger, turn towards the inside and stitch down.
46. Make a buttonhole on the right waistband and sew a corresponding button to the left waist band.

47. Press your new skirt.