CONSTRUCTION:
Fold & pin the pleats as marked on the pattern, once in place stitch down to the markings, from the inside.
Centre the pleat over the seam and press flat. On the inside of the skirt the pleats will be box pleats, on the outside the pleats will be inverted pleats, five on the front and five on the back. Staystitch across the top of the front and back pieces, to keep the pleats in place.
With right sides facing sew one of the pockets to the right-side seam, clip at the notches and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides facing place the second pocket to the pocket previously sewn, pin the outer round edges of the pocket bags together. Once in place stitch together, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back side seam. Neaten the outer edge of the pocket with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing sew the front side seam to the back side seam.
Starting at the waist, sew down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew, be careful not to catch the front pocket opening and continue down to the hem.
Neaten the side seam with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Neaten both left side seams with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing, sew one long edge of the waistband to the skirt, matching the notches. Press seam towards the waistband. With overlocker/serger neaten the other long edge of the waistband.
Turn zipper to the wrong side and align with the skirt edges. Using tailors chalk mark several marks on fabric and zip. This will help you align zipper and fabric evenly when sewing the zip in.
Open zipper fully and place one edge of the zipper over the left side of the skirt. Pin in place.
Install invisible zipper foot, if available. Using your fingers uncurl the zipper teeth and sew as close to the teeth as you can. Ensure you chalk marks are matching.
Repeat steps 9 and 10, on the right-side seam. Turn the garment to right side and press to neaten the seam.
Change back to a normal foot then pin the front and back side seam together. Sew together, starting 7mm from the end of the zip seam and make the seam allowance about 3mm wider. Press seam open. See stylearc.com for our “Invisible Zip Tutorial” for more information.
Fold the waistband over the invisible zip, with right sides facing and stitch down. Clip the corners and turn out to the right side.
Fold the waistband piece in half lengthways, towards the inside on the skirt, press and pin in place. From the right side sew the waistband down with a sink stitch (stitch in the ditch), on the side of the skirt.
Neaten hem with overlocker/serger and press towards the inside, at your desired length. Topstitch down and press your finished skirt