CONSTRUCTION
BREAST POCKETS
Neaten the top edge of the pocket with an overlocker/serger (you can also fold this edge at the first notch with wrong sides together and press like I have done here). With right sides facing, fold the pocket top over at the fold line and sew down each side of the turnover, clip the corners and turn the pocket top out. Topstitch along the overlocked/serged edge to secure.
Turn the remaining outer pocket edges inward and press.
Pin the pocket to the left and right front body as marked on the pattern, once in place sew the outer edges of the pocket with a twin needle topstitch (I’ve used a single topstitch on this shacket).
INSEAM POCKETS
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets marked ‘A’ to the front side seam marked ‘A’ on the pattern between the notches and clip at the notches. Understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag. Sew a 1cm/3/8” topstitch across the top and bottom notches and down the pocket opening.
With right sides facing sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket ‘B’ to ‘B’. Note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back-body’s side seam. Neaten the outer edge of the pockets with an overlocker/serger.
BODY
With right sides facing sew the top back to the lower back. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam upwards. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the top back.
With right sides facing sew the front and back shoulder seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the back. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the back.
With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armholes. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the body. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the body.
With right sides facing sew the front side seam to the to the back side seam. Start sewing at the cuff of the sleeve, sew up the sleeve to the underarm and continue sewing down the side seam, stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew. Be careful not to catch the front pocket opening when sewing the side seam down to the hem. Neaten the side seams with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Neaten the hem with an overlocker/serger.
Neaten each centre front edge with an overlocker/serger (or turn in once) and press the front turnback to the inside at the fold line marked on the pattern. At the hem only, fold the turnback with right sides together at the fold line. Stitch the turnback to the hem of the body then clip the corner and turn out to the right side (bagging out the corner). Topstitch down the overlocked/serged edge of the front turnback to secure to the body.
Turn up the hem of the body and stitch with a twin needle topstitch.
Neaten the edge of each sleeve with an overlocker/serger (or double turn if intending to wear with the cuffs turned up) and twin needle topstitch the sleeve hems.
COLLAR
Click here to watch a video on how to sew the collar and collar stand.
With right sides facing sew the outer and side edges of the collars together. Clip the corners and turn to the right side and press. Topstitch around the outer edges of the collar.
Press the lower edge of the outer collar stand upwards.
Place the collar between the collar stands and stitch together.
Clip the corners, turn out and press.
Sew the inner collar stand to the neckline, matching the notches as you sew.
Sew the folded edge of the outer collar stand to the neckline with an edge stitch.
COMPLETION
Make the buttonholes on the right front followed by sewing the buttons to the left front.
Press your finished shacket!
