CONSTRUCTION:
COLLAR & COLLAR STAND:
With right sides facing, sew the outer and side edges of the collar together. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
Edge stitch around the outer edges of the collar.
Place the collar between the right sides of the collar stands and stitch together, sandwiching the collar between the two collar stands. Turn out to the right side.
Press and put aside.
BODY:
With right sides facing sew the front shoulder to the front yoke seam, matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the yoke.
Repeat for the back body and yoke.
Double fold the front turn back, following the markings on the pattern. Press and pin in place, stay stitch along the top and the base of the turn back to hold in place.
Topstitch down the inner fold of the turnback.
Stay stitch around the neckline to prevent the neck from stretching when attaching the collar.
INSEAM POCKETS:
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets marked ‘A’ to the front side seam marked ‘A’ on the pattern. Clip at the notches and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides facing sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam. Stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket ‘B’ to ‘B’. The straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back body’s side seam.
Neaten around the pocket with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing sew the front side seam to the to the back side seam. Start sewing at the underarm, sew down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket, be careful not to catch the front pocket opening. Continue sewing the side seam down to the notch that indicates the split opening.
Neaten each side seam from the base of the pocket to the notch indicating the split opening with an overlocker/serger. The lower side seam needs to be an open seam to enable the split/hem to be double turned.
Neaten the side seam from the underarm to the base of the pocket with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
ATTACHING COLLAR TO NECK:
Press the seam allowance of the outer collar stand to the inside. Sew the inside collar stand to the neckline matching the notches. Press the seam towards the collar.
Pin the outer collar stand to the neckline, once in place stitch it to the neckline with an edge stitch on the side of the collar stand. Continue edge stitching all around the collar stand.
SLEEVES:
With right sides facing sew the under sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and ease in, this makes it easier to sew the sleeve into the armhole.
With right sides facing sew the sleeve into the armhole matching the notches as you sew.
Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
Neaten the sleeve hems with an overlocker/serger. Turn the hem of the sleeve to the inside at the notch and machine stitch.
The hem now can be turned up to create a cuff, this is optional.
Double turn the back split openings followed by double turning the back hem.
Double turn the front hem starting at the front turnback and finishing at the top of the split at the side seam, take care not to twist or ‘rope’ the curved hem. The hem can be neatened with an overlocker/serger and turned in once and stitched if preferred.
With right sides facing sew the centre back belt seams together and press open.
With right sides facing fold the length of the belt in half and sew both ends and the base leaving an opening to turn out.
Turn the belt to the right side, press and sew up the opening.
Buttonhole the right front as marked on the pattern and sew the buttons to correspond on the left front.
Press your new dress.