CONSTRUCTION:
SLEEVE 1:
Short lantern sleeve for original Trinnie Woven Dress Bodice B only. Note the lower sleeve is double fabric.
Sew the darts in the lower sleeves and press toward the centre.
With right sides facing sew each of the underarm seams of the lower sleeves together and press open.
With right sides facing sew the lower seams of the lower sleeves together. Press seam towards one side.
Turn to the right side of the fabric and understitch close to the seam on the side of the under sleeve.
Sew a stay stitch to the cut edges of the lower sleeve to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the underarm seams of the upper sleeves together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew the upper sleeves to the lower sleeves, neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam upward. Turn to the right side of the fabric and understitch close to the seam on the side of the upper sleeve.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly draw in, (not gathered) this makes it easier to sew the sleeve head into the armhole.
Set your sleeves aside until you’ve finished sewing your original Trinnie Woven Dress Bodice B. Then with right sides together, sew the sleeve into the armhole. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
SLEEVE 2:
¾ length sleeve for original Trinnie Woven Dress Bodice B only.
With right sides facing sew the underarm sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Neaten the sleeve opening with an overlocker/serger.
Cut the elastic to your personal length and stitch the short ends together securely.
Press the hem of the sleeve to the inside at the fold line marked on the pattern. Encase the elastic inside the hem of the sleeve while sewing the hem, making sure not to catch the elastic as you sew.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly draw in, (not gathered) this makes it easier to sew the sleeve head into the armhole.
Set your sleeves aside until you have finished sewing your original Trinnie Woven Dress bodice B. Then with right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
BODICE 1 – ROUND NECK WITH BINDING:
Note the original stand collar from the Trinnie Woven Dress Bodice A can be used in place of binding preferred.
With right sides facing sew the front and back shoulder seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the short ends of the back and front armhole facings together, press the seams open. Neaten the outer edges with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the armhole facing to the armhole matching the notches as you sew. Clip around the curve, turn out to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing. Catch the facing down at the shoulder and side seam with a hand stitch.
Sew a large gathering stitch to the front neck and waist as noted on the pattern pieces. Gather up to measure the length of the corresponding neck guide for bound neck (or stand collar if using) and waistband notches.
With right sides facing sew one edge of the binding to the neck. Neaten the opposite edge with an overlocker/serger.
Sew your preferred skirt then follow the original Trinnie Woven Dress instructions for attaching the waistband to the bodice & skirt and inserting the invisible zip.
Once the zip is sewn, turn the binding over to the inside of the neck, turn in the short ends and stitch it down with a stitch in the ditch (sink stitch).
BODICE 2 – V NECK
With right sides facing sew the front and back shoulder seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Neaten each centre front seam with an overlocker/serger. With right sides facing sew the centre front seams together stopping 6mm (¼”) below the neckline and press the seam open.
Sew the centre front neck facing seams together stopping 6mm (¼”) from the neck and press open.
Sew the shoulder seams of the front and back neck facing together and press the seam open. Neaten the outer edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the neck facing to the neckline of the bodice. Start sewing at the centre back and stitch down to the centre front point, with the needle down, turn the corner and continue sewing around to the back neck. Turn to the right side and understitch as far as you can close to the seam on the side of the facing.
With right sides together sew the front and back side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides together sew the short ends of the back and front armhole facings together, press the seams open. Neaten the outer edges of the facings with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the armhole facing to the armhole matching the notches as you sew. Clip the curve, turn out to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing.
Catch the facing down at the shoulder and side seam with a hand stitch.
Sew a large stitch to the waist as marked on the pattern and gather up to measure the length of the corresponding waistband notches.
Sew your preferred skirt then follow the original Trinnie Woven Dress instructions for attaching the waistband to the bodice, skirt and inserting the invisible zip.
SKIRT A – A LINE SKIRT WITH OPTIONAL FRILL:
Sew one set of the pockets to the front side seam where marked on the pattern, clip at the notches.
Understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag. Sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket. Neaten the rounded edge of the pocket with an overlocker/serger. The straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back-body’s side seam.
With right sides facing sew the back and front side seams together, take care not to catch the pocket opening as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Sew the 2 darts in the back skirt and press towards the side seam.
Sew the skirt to the base of the outer waistband. Neaten the raw edge of the inner waistband with an overlocker/serger.
Press the seam of the outer waistband upwards and pin the inner waistband to the waist seam of the skirt. From the right-side stitch in the ditch to secure the inner waistband. Neaten each centre back seam with an overlocker/serger.
Insert the invisible zip as per the Trinnie Woven Dress Bodice B instructions. Sew the centre back skirt seam after the bodice and the zip have been completed.
OPTIONAL FRILL FOR SKIRT A:
With right sides facing sew the short ends of the skirt frills together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press.
Double turn and stitch the hem of the frill. Sew 2 rows of a large gathering stitches to the raw edge and gather up to match the hem circumference of skirt A.
Sew the frill to the base of the skirt. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.
SKIRT B – THREE-TIERED SKIRT:
Note if sewing inseam pockets follow the directions of skirt A and refer to the markings on the pattern.
Top tier: With right sides facing sew the front and back skirts together at the side seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Neaten each centre back seam with an overlocker/serger. With right sides facing sew the centre back seams together from the base until the notch below the zip. The upper centre back seam is left open for the invisible zip.
Sew two rows of a large gathering stitch around the top edge, gather the skirt into the measurement of the bodice waistband.
Mark the centre front of the top tier of the skirt and match it to the centre front of the outer waistband. The side seams of the skirt will match the side seam of the waistband.
Mid-tier: With right sides facing sew the side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Gather the top raw edge as in number step 2 then sew the gathered tier 2 to the base of tier 1, matching the centre front, centre back notches and the side seams.
Bottom tier: This tier has three panels, sew the short ends of the three panels together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press. Once sewn together fold the length in half and mark the halfway length and the quarter length with chalk as will line up with the centre front, centre back and side seams on tier 2, this is important for the gathering to be even. Sew two rows of large gathering stitch to the top edge. Gather up to match the length of the base of the mid-tier, then sew the gathered edge to the base of the mid-tier.
Double turn the hem at the base of the bottom tier to the inside, machine stitch and press.
Sew the completed skirt to the base of the outer waistband. Neaten the raw edge of the inner waistband with an overlocker/serger. Press the seam of the outer waistband upwards and pin the inner waistband to the waist seam of the skirt. From the right-side stitch in the ditch to secure the inner waistband.
Neaten each centre back seam with an overlocker/serger.
Insert the invisible zip as per the Trinnie Woven Dress bodice B instructions.
SKIRT C – EIGHT GORED SKIRT:
Note if sewing inseam pockets follow the directions of skirt A and refer to the markings on the pattern.
With right sides facing sew the centre front seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the wearers right.
With right sides facing sew the centre panels to the side panels. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the side seams.
Sew the inseam pockets if using.
With right sides facing sew the side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Neaten the raw edge of the inner waistband with an overlocker/serger.
Sew the completed skirt to the base of the outer waistband. Press the seam of the outer waistband upwards and pin the inner waistband to the waist seam of the skirt. From the right-side stitch in the ditch to secure the inner waistband.
Neaten each centre back seam with an overlocker/serger.
Insert the invisible zip as per the Trinnie Woven Dress Bodice B instructions.
Double turn the hem to the inside, stitch and press.
