CONSTRUCTION:
COLLAR & COLLAR STAND:
With right sides facing, sew the outer and side edges of the collar together. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
Sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch around the outer edges of the collar.
Sandwich the collar between the right sides of the 2 collar stands and stitch the collar stands together. Turn out to the right side.
Press and put aside until arriving at step 19.
FRONT BODY & INSEAM POCKETS:
Pin the 2 tucks on each side of the front bodice, once in place stay stitch across the base of the tucks to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the base of the bodices to the top of the front yokes. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press downwards. Sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch on the side of the yoke.
With right sides facing sew the front skirts to the base of the front yokes. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam upwards. Sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch on the side of the yoke.
Sew one set of the pockets to the front side seam where marked on the pattern, clip at the notches and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
Sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam. Stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket. Neaten the rounded edges with an overlocker/serger. The straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back body’s side seam.
BACK BODY:
With wrong sides together fold the back bodice to create the box pleat as marked on the pattern. Stay stitch across the top and base of the box pleat to hold in place.
Pin the 2 tucks either side of the box pleat as marked on the pattern. Once in place stay stitch across the base of the tucks to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the base of the bodice to the top of the back yoke. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press downwards. Sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch on the side of the yoke.
With right sides facing sew the back skirt to the base of the back yoke. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam upwards. Sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch on the side of the yoke.
With right sides facing sew the front and back shoulder seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch on the side of the back.
FRONT & BACK BODY CONTINUED:
Press the front band in half lengthways with wrong sides together. Press the seam allowance of one long edge to the inside. With the right side of the band on the wrong side of the body, pin the unpressed edge of the band to the body. Once in place stitch together.
Fold the band over to the right side of the body and edge stitch close to the seam on the side of the band. Sew and edge stitch along opposite folded edge of the front band.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together, being careful not to catch the pocket opening. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Neaten the hem with an overlocker/serger. Turn the hem to the inside at the notch and machine or hand stitch.
ATTACHING THE COLLAR:
Sew the inside collar stand to the neckline matching the notches. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline with an edge stitch on the side of the collar stand.
SLEEVES & CUFFS:
With right sides facing sew the underarm seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With the right side facing the inside sleeve split sew the raw edge of the binding to the split opening. Press the seam allowance of the other edge of the binding to the inside. Turn the binding over to the right side of the sleeve and with the seam allowance pressed in, sew the binding to the sleeve split with an edge stitch.
Pinch the top of the binding in half and sew a diagonal dart through the binding at the top of the split. Turn the binding so that it is on the back side of the sleeve split and stay stitch in place.
Pin the tucks either side of the split opening towards the split and stay stitch to hold in place.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly ease in, as this makes it easier to sew the sleeve into the armhole.
With right side facing sew the 3 outer edges of the cuffs together. Turn out to the right side, press, and sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch around the 3 outer edges.
Sew the inside edge of the cuff to the base of the sleeve. Press the seam allowance of the outer cuff inward and pin to the outside base of the sleeve seam, once in place edge stitch to the cuff/sleeve.
With right sides facing sew the head of the sleeve into the armhole. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
COMPLETION:
Buttonhole the right front tab and collar stand as marked on the pattern.
Sew buttons to correspond with buttonholes on the left front tab and collar stand.
Buttonhole the cuffs and sew corresponding buttons to the opposite side of the cuffs.
Press your new dress.