CONSTRUCTION:
MAIN:
With wrong sides together fold and press the 2 pleats on both Front (1) panels and stitch the pleats from waist to hem. Fold pleats towards side seam at the waist and stay stitch to the waist edge. To create the twisted pleat
effect, fold the pleats the opposite way towards the in-leg at the hemline and stay stitch along the hemline. The pleats will twist below knee level.
Sew the back darts, finish sewing 2cm (3/4”) beyond the drill hole (marked with a +) and press towards the centre back.
Take one Front leg (1) and one Back leg (2), and with right sides facing sew the in-leg seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Repeat for the other side.
Take Back Zip Fuse (7) piece and fuse it to the centre back zip allowance, matching at the notches (this is to prevent stretching when sewing the zip). Neaten both centre front and centre back crotch edges with an overlocker/serger.
Follow the Invisible Zip tutorial on stylearc.com to attach the invisible zip to the centre back. Do not join the centre back seam.
With right sides together join the crotch seam. Start at the front waist, continue over the in leg seams and finish at base of the centre back zip. Press the crotch seam open.
POCKETS:
With right sides together sew one set of the pockets marked “A” to the front side seam marked “A” on the pattern between the notches, clip at the notches and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides together sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam. Stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket “B” to “B”, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the side panel. Neaten the outer edges of the pocket bags with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the side seams taking care not to catch the pocket opening. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
WAIST AND LEG FACINGS:
With right sides together sew the side seams of the waist facings together and press open.
Neaten the lower edge of the waist facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together join the centre back facing edges to the edges of the invisible zip tape.
With right sides together fold the facing around the zip and sew the waist facing to the main waistline. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and understitch on top of the seam on the side of the facing. Stitch in the ditch
or use a small hand stitch to secure the waist facing to the centre front and side seams of the body to hold in place.
With right sides together join the in leg seam of one hem facing. Press open and repeat for the other side.
With right sides together sew the hem facings to the leg openings, matching the facing seam to the in leg seam. Understitch the seam on the side of the facing. Neaten the top edge of the leg facings with an overlocker/serger.
Press the facing to the inside and pin to the inside of the leg.
Topstitch the leg facings to the legs stopping and starting either side of the pleats. The pleats are not sewn down with the hem stitching.
Press your finished garment thoroughly.