CONSTRUCTION
With right sides together sew the ends of the fused collar (5) to the fused collar insert (6) pieces and press the seams open; once this is done you will have one pair of collars. Refer to diagram.
With right sides together pin the outer edges of the of the collar/under collar together and sew, keeping the needle down as you turn the corners. Clip the corners and turn the collar to the right side.
Understitch along the edge of the under collar and press. Please note, if you are going to wear the collar standing up, the understitch should be on the top collar. If turning the collar down, understitch on the side of the under collar. If you’re unsure how you will wear it, just pin it flat and press. Put the collar aside until later.
Overlock/serge the shoulder edges of the back (2) and front (4) neck facings, then with right sides together, sew the facing shoulder seams and press the seam open.
Overlock/serge the CF edges of the front facing, then with right sides together sew the centre front seam of the neck facing. Start at the bottom of the facing and stop 6mm (1/4”) before the neck edge. Press the seam open. Overlock/serge around the outer edge of the facings, press and put aside.
Neaten each centre back (1) seam with an overlocker/serger. With right sides together sew the centre back seam and press the seam open.
Overlock/serge the shoulder seams of the back (1) and front (3) body panels. With right sides facing, stitch the shoulder seams together and press open.
Overlock/serge each of the armhole seams. Clip the notch marked “armhole” and fold the seam allowance between the notches to the inside to make the sleeve hem and stitch down. Overlock the hem edge if you are not sewing a double-folded hem later.
Pin the made-up collar to the neckline, start the collar 3mm (1/8”) from the centre front seam notch matching A & B; once in place stitch to the neckline.
Overlock/serge each centre front seam, then pin the seams together with right sides facing. Once in place carefully start sewing at 6mm (1/4”) down from the cut edge of the neckline; stitch down to the hemline matching the notches as you sew. Clip any bulk away from the neck seams to reduce bulk and press the seam open
With right sides together pin the neck facing to the neck of the body, sandwiching the collar in between. Once in place stitch the neckline starting at the centre front and finishing at the opposite centre front.
Understitch around the neckline on the side of the facing. Sew a hand stitch to the shoulder seams to hold the facing in place.
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets (7) to the front side seam where marked on the pattern, clip at the notches and understitch on the edge of the pocket bag. Note: to reinforce the pocket opening, you may wish to place a thin strip of fusing along the edge of the pocket if your fabric is light weight. We have done this here on our sample.
With right sides facing pin the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam. Stitch the two pocket bags together, creating a pocket and overlock/serge the edge. Note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back-body’s side seam.
With right sides facing, sew the front side seam the to the back side seam. Start sewing the seams together at the underarm, stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew. Be careful not to catch the front pocket opening. When you reach the corner, with the needle down, turn the corner and continue sewing down to the hemline. Neaten the seams of the lower section below the corner together with an overlocker/serger.
Sew a small bar tack to the base of the armhole on top of the seam to secure the armhole opening.
Turn the hem to the inside and top stitch.
Press your new dress!
