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CONSTRUCTION:
COLLAR:
Press the seam allowance (6mm/1/4”) of the lower edge of the outer collar (4) upward. With RST sew the top and rounded edges of the collar with a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance leaving the neck edge open.
Turn the collar out to the right side and understitch the seam on the side of the under collar. Press and put aside.
SLEEVE AND TAB:
With RST sew the dart at the head of the sleeve (2), neaten it with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST fold the tab (5) in half lengthways then sew across one short end and down the side. Clip the corner and turn out to the right side and press. Sew an edge stitch around the outer edges, then neaten the raw edge with an overlocker/serger.
Sew a buttonhole at the finished end of the tab. Sew the neatened edge of the tab in to position on the inside (wrong side) of the sleeve as marked on the pattern.
FRONT AND BACK BODY:
Neaten both centre front seams with an overlocker/serger.
For Option 1 (tucked front, shown above): we suggest pinning or tacking the tucks and giving them a light press to obtain the centre of the tuck. This is important as we want all the tucks to be even in size and the same distance apart. There are five tucks on each side of the centre front. Once this is done stitch the tucks, starting from the neckline and finishing at the positions marked on the pattern. Press the tucks towards the side seam.
For Option 2 (gathered neck, not shown): sew a large gathering stitch between the centre front neck notch and the last tuck notch. Gather up to match the distance between the notches on the collar.
With RST sew the centre front seams together from the notch at the base of the front neck split down to the hem. Press the seam open.
With the centre front split seam pressed open stitch around the split opening with a 6mm (1/4”) top stitch.
Sew a large gathering stitch to the back neck between the notches, gather up to match the notches on the back collar/stand.
SLEEVE AND BODY:
With RST sew the front raglan sleeve to the front armhole and the back raglan sleeve to the back armhole, neaten the armhole seams with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
Neaten the sleeve seams with an overlocker/serger as these seams will be open seams.
Neaten the front and back hem seams and side seams with an overlocker/serger.
With RST sew the front and back side seams together. Start at the split notch above the hemline and stitch up to the underarm, turn the corner and continue sewing, finishing at the sleeve opening. Press the seams open.
Turn the side seam split seams and the hem seams to the inside at the notches and top stitch.
Double turn the sleeve hem and top stitch.
COLLAR:
Due to the neckline having tucks or gathers we suggest measuring the neck circumference to the neck length of the collar stand to ensure they are the same length. Align the notches and sew the inside collar stand to the wrong side of the neckline with a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance.
Stitch the pre-pressed edge of the outer collar/stand to the neckline with an edge stitch on the side of the collar/stand, continue the edge stitch completely around the collar/stand.
COMPLETION:
Sew a button to the right side of each sleeve, positioned on top of the tab which is sewn on the inside of the sleeve.
Press your new top.
