CONSTRUCTION:
PREPARE THE TUCKS:
Before taking the pattern off the fabric, cut the fabric on either side of the tucks, as shown on the pattern. Note – cut along the solid line only, do not cut the dashed line.
Ensure the tab placement is marked on the wrong side of the fabric, as shown on the pattern with an +.
With the fabric right side up, fold the tucks at the notches as indicated on the pattern. You will have a total of five tucks. Baste the tucks into place.
Neaten three edges of the tab using an overlocker/serger. Turn the three edges under 1cm (3/8”) and top stitch. Press.
With RST, pin the raw edge of the tab to the main front, over the tucks. Sew into place.
With RST, pin the vertical edges of the opening together so the seam sits straight below the tucks. Sew, then neaten using an overlocker/serger. Press to one side.
With RST, sew the front to back at the shoulder seams. Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST and notches aligned, pin the sleeve to the sleeve opening. Sew, then neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the sleeve.
With RST, pin the front to back at the side seam and under sleeve. Starting at the hem, sew the side seam and through the under sleeve. Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
NECKBAND:
With RST, sew the short ends of the neckband together, creating a loop. Press the seam open, then with WST, fold the neckband in half lengthways and press. Baste the edges of the neckband together.
With notches aligned, pin the neckband to the right side of the neck opening, using a 6mm (1/4”) seam. Sew then neaten using an overlocker/serger. Press the seam towards the body. Edge stitch on the side of the body. You may choose to use a cover stitch machine or twin needle. Press.
HEMS AND COMPLETION:
Neaten the hem and sleeve hems using an overlocker/serger. Turn to the inside 2cm (½”), pin and top stitch. You may choose to use a cover stitch machine or twin needle. Press.
With the front body right side up, fold/pinch (or gather if you prefer) the fabric under the tab at the positions marked by the notches on the pattern.
Wrap the tab over the folded fabric, bringing it to the wrong side and align the corners with the outer marks on the wrong side of the fabric. The centre mark will align with the centre of the tab.
Sew the tab to the tucks on the inside (wrong side) at the position indicated on the pattern with +’s. by hand or machine. Trim any loose threads and carefully press your new top!
