Fold the top edge 1cm wrong sides facing then with right sides facing fold the top edge of the pocket over, following the fold line on the pattern. Sew down each side of the turnover, clip the corners and turn the pocket out to the right side and press.
Edge stitch along the inner folded edge to hold the turn back in place. Fold the remaining outer edges towards the inside and press.
Pin the pocket to the back legs as marked on the pattern, once in place stitch the pocket on with an edge stitch, securing the top corners with a reinforcing stitch.
With right sides facing sew the front inside legs to the back inside legs, neaten with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew around the outer edges of the faux fly, when arriving at the base of the fly keep the needle down, turn the corner and continue sewing the lower front crotch seam continuing through the back crotch seams and finishing at the back waist. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press to the wearers right.
With the fly pressed to the wearer’s right sew a stay stitch to the top at the waistline, to secure.
Top stitch around the edge of the fly securing it to the right front leg.
With right sides together sew one set of the pockets marked “A” to the front side seam marked “A” on the pattern, clip at the notches and sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides together sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket “B” to “B”, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back-body’s side seam. Neaten the outer edge of the pocket with overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the front side seam to the to the back side seam, start sewing the seams together at the waist, sew down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew, be careful not to catch the front pocket opening, continue sewing the side seam down to the notch (*) that indicates the split opening. This seam will be neatened later (step 13 on instruction sheet).
With an overlocker/serger neaten the back leg only, from around 10cm above the split notch, finishing at the split. This section is an open seam.
With an overlocker/serger neaten the back leg only, from around 10cm above the split notch, finishing at the split. This section is on open seam.
Double turn the back leg split to the inside, in line with the seam allowance and again at the second fold line to create a 2cm (¾”) step, once in place stitch down the length of the split, this top stitch will be in line with the side seam.
Double turn the front leg split to the inside; note the markings on the pattern, this fold line runs in line with the side seam, lay the front split on top of the step of the back split, pin in place then top stitch across the top of the split, with the needle down, turn the corner and sew down the length of the front split.
Double turn the hem to the inside and stitch, at desired length.
Fuse the front waistbands.
With right sides facing sew the top edges of the front waistbands together, turn out and sew an understitch to the inner waistband.
With right sides facing sew the side seams of the front waistband to the side seams of the back waistband.
Cut the elastic to your personal length and sew each end to the side seam of the back waistband below the fold line.
Neaten the top edge of the waistband with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together pin the un-overlocked edge of the waistband to the top of the waist, matching side seams, once in place stitch together.
Fold the waistband in half to the inside to cover the elastic and pin in place. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and sew a sink stitch (stitch in the ditch) to secure the waistband in place.
Sew a vertical top stitch through the elastic at the side seam and centre back waistband to help prevent the elastic from rolling.
Sew a top stitch through the top edge and base of the back waistband stretching the elastic as you sew.
Press your new pants!
