CONSTRUCTION:
NECK BAND:
With right sides together (RST) sew the neckband (1) together at the centre back. Press open.
With RST, fold the neckband in half lengthways and sew the short ends. This becomes the hem on the bands. Turn out to the right side and baste the raw edges together, taking care not to stretch the fabric as you go. Press and set aside until Step 11.
CUFFS:
With RST sew the two short ends of the cuffs (4) together, turn to the right side and fold in half lengthwise.
Baste the two raw edges together, taking care to not stretch the fabric as you go. Press and set aside until Step 13.
SHORT LENGTH WITHOUT POCKETS:
With RST and aligning notches, sew the front (2) to back (3) at the shoulders. Neaten the seam using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST, sew the front to back at the side seam. Neaten the seam using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
LONG LENGTH WITH POCKETS:
With RST and aligning notches, sew one set of the pockets (5) to the front side seam. Clip at the notches and understitch the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With RST, lay pocket bag 2 on top of pocket bag 1, align and sew both pocket bags together. Note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back-body’s side seam.
Neaten the outer edge of the pockets with an overlocker/serger. Carefully pin the pocket into place inside of the front of the jacket and top stitch.
With RST and aligning notches, sew the front (2) to back (3) at the shoulders. Neaten the seam using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST, pin the front to the back at the side seam. Sew along the side seam, through the straight edge of the back pocket to the hem. Take care not to catch the front pocket opening as you go. Neaten using an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
MAIN BODY:
With RST and aligning notches, pin the neckband to the neck edge of the body. The bottom edge of the band will sit at the notch, 2cm (3/4”) up from the raw edge. Sew the neckband to the body with a 1cm (3/8″) seam.
Take your pre-prepared (optional) binding strip and pin it along the neck seam. Sew the binding, then press toward the seam. Fold under 1cm (3/8”), then again, encasing the seam, pin into place. Sew the binding. Otherwise, neaten using an overlocker/serger and press towards the body.
COMPLETION:
With the jacket turned inside out, position the cuffs inside the sleeve opening with RST and align notches. Sew then neaten the seam using an overlocker/serger and press towards the body.
Neaten the hem using an overlocker/serger, turn up 2cm (3/4”) covering the band seam, and sew into place by hand or machine.
Trim off any loose threads and carefully press your new jacket!
