CONSTRUCTION:
BODICE A – ROUND NECK
Fuse/interface the front button turnback. Neaten the raw edges of the centre front bodices with an overlocker/serger.
Stitch the armhole darts and press down.
With right sides facing sew the front and back shoulder seams together, neaten using an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the front edge of the facing to the front of the bodice turn back, matching the notches. Press the seam allowance towards the facing.
With right sides facing sew the front neck facings to the back neck facing at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open and neaten the outside edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing fold the front button turnback along the fold line at the neck, which is marked on the pattern with a notch. Repeat for other side.
With right sides facing pin the neck facing to the bodice, matching at the shoulder seams. Sew the facing to the bodice using a 6mm (¼”) seam allowance.
Clip the neckline seam allowance, being careful not to cut through the stitching. Sew an understitch around the neckline on the side of the facing, starting and finishing at the button turnback. Turn out to the right side and press.
Stitch or fuse the stabilizer to the armholes to hold the shape.
With wrong sides together press the armhole binding in half lengthways and sew a staystitch to the raw edges to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the armhole bind to the armholes, then sew an edge stitch close to the seam on the side of the binding.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together, also sewing through the bind. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Turn the binding to the inside of the body and pin, once in place stitch down with a 6mm (¼”) topstitch. Press.
Wrap the right front waist over left front waist, matching at the overlap notches, and sew together with a staystitch.
BODICE B – V NECK:
Fuse/interface the front and back neck facings.
Sew the armhole darts and press down.
With right sides facing sew the front and back bodice shoulder seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With right sides facing sew the front facings to the back neck facing at the shoulder seams. Press the seams open and neaten the outside edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing pin the facing to the bodice neckline, matching at the shoulder seams and centre front notch. Sew the facing to the bodice using a 6mm (¼”) seam allowance, pivoting at the centre front/V-neck intersection.
Clip the neckline seam allowance, being careful not to cut through the stitching. Sew an understitch around the centre front and neckline on the side of the facing. Turn out to the right side and press.
Stitch or fuse the stabilizer to the armholes to hold the shape.
With wrong sides together press the armhole binding in half lengthways and sew a staystitch to the raw edges to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the armhole bind to the armholes, then sew an edge stitch close to the seam on the side of the binding.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together, also sewing through the bind. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Turn the binding to the inside of the body and pin, once in place stitch down with a 6mm (¼”) topstitch. Press.
Wrap the right front waist over left front waist, matching at the overlap notches, and sew together with a staystitch.
INSEAM POCKETS:
Click here to watch a video of how to sew inseam pockets.
Sew one set of the pockets to the front side seam as marked on the pattern, clip at the notches and then understitch on the side of the pocket bag.
Sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket, the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back side seam. Neaten the outer edge of the pocket with an overlocker/serger.
PATCH POCKETS:
With right sides facing fold the pocket in half matching the outer inverted pleat notches, sew from the outer notch at the top of the pocket down to the * marked on the pattern and from the base of the pocket up to the * marked on the pattern. Press open creating an inverted pleat.
Neaten the pocket top with an overlocker/serger. Fold the pocket top to the right side at the notch and sew down each side, clip the corners and turn to the right side. Press the remaining three seam allowances inward. Sew a twin needle topstitch across the base of the top turn back. Press and put aside until step 32.
LEGS:
With right sides facing sew the front side seam to the back side seam. Start sewing the seams together at the waist, sew down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew down to the hem, be careful not to catch the front pocket opening. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back. If not using the inseam pockets sew the outer legs together from the waist finishing at the leg opening.
Patch pockets: Now the side seams are sewn, pin the pleated pocket to the front and back leg over the side seam following the markings on the pattern. Once in place sew the three outer edges on with a twin needle topstitch.
With right sides facing sew the front and back in leg seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew the back crotch seam together, stitch from the back waistline down to the crotch junction and continue sewing up the front crotch. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
ATTACHING BODICE TO PANT:
With right sides facing sew the bodice to the pant using the wider seam allowance. Neaten with an overlocker/serger.
Cut the elastic to your preferred personal length and stitch it together securely.
To form a casing for the elastic, fold the waist seam up towards the bodice and lay the elastic inside so that the elastic is no longer visible and pin the casing to the bodice, then topstitch along the overlocked edge stretching the elastic as you sew. Alternately using a safety pin thread one end of the unstitched elastic through the sewn casing through a small gap which will be sewn up once the elastic is sewn together securely.
Neaten the hem of the legs with an overlocker/serger, turn the hem up to the inside and machine or hand stitch.
TIE BELT:
With right sides facing sew the centre back belt seams together and press open.
With right sides facing fold the length of the belt in half and sew both ends and the base leaving an opening to turn out.
Turn the belt to the right side, press and sew up the opening.
COMPLETION:
Mark and sew the buttonholes on the right front bodice as marked on the pattern (or to your preferred placement).
Sew the buttons to the left front bodice to correspond with the buttonholes.
Catch the neck facings with a hand stitch at the shoulder seams.
Press your new jumpsuit.
