FRONT POCKETS:
Double turn the top edge of the coin pocket to the inside and sew down with a twin needle top stitch.
Turn the side edges of the pocket to the inside, press and pin the coin pocket to the right pocket facing, once in place sew on with a twin needle. Overlock/serge the rounded edges of the pocket facings.
Press the pocket bags in half and sew the pocket facings to the inside of the pocket bags, the coin pocket is sewn to the right pocket bag.
Turn the pocket bag to the right side, press and sew a twin needle stitch around the curved pocket opening.
Fold the pocket bag over so that the right sides are facing and sew across the base of the pocket bag and overlock/serge.
Pin the side seams of the pocket bag and the side seam of the front leg together. Once in place sew a stay stitch across the top of the pocket to hold in place.
FLY:
Overlock/serge the rounded edge of the fly facing.
With right sides together sew the fly facing to the right front crotch. Turn to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the fly facing (not pictured).
With wrong sides facing press the fly bearer in half lengthways and stay stitch along the raw edges to hold in place then overlock/serge the length and the base of the bearer.
Sew one side of the zip to the left crotch, sandwich the zip between the left front and the fly bearer and stitch down the length of the zip. Sew an edge stitch close to the zip seam on the side of the left front.
Sew the front crotch seams together and overlock/serge.
Pull the zip closed and pin the right side of the zip tape to the fly facing, once in place sew the tape of the zip to the fly facing.
Press the front crotch seam to the wearers right and sew a twin needle top stitch from the base of the fly to the lower crotch.
BACK POCKET, YOKE AND BACK LEGS
Double turn the top of the back pocket to the inside and sew down with a twin needle top stitch.
Press the outer seams to the inside and pin the back legs as marked on the pattern, once in place stitch a twin needle top stitch to the three outer edges of the pocket.
With right sides facing sew the back yoke to the back legs (match the notches) and press the seams upward. Sew a twin needle top stitch on top of the yoke seam.
With right sides facing sew the centre back crotch seams together, take care to match the yoke seam as you sew. Press the crotch seam towards the wearers right and sew a twin needle top stitch on top of the seam.
With right sides facing sew the front and back in leg seams together, serge and press the seams toward the back and sew a twin needle top stitch to the seams.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together, press the seam towards the back and sew an edge stitch close to the seam from the waist down approximately 18cm/7”.
With right sides facing sew the centre back seams of both waistbands and press open, be sure that the longer left waistband is on the left when sewn to the waist of the pant.
With right sides facing sew the two waistbands together along the top and down the ends, clip the corners, turn out to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the inner waistband.
With right sides together sew the inner waistband to the waist of the pant, press the seam upwards.
Press the seam of the top waistband inward and pin the top waist band to the waist seam, once in place sew the seam of the top waistband in place with an edge stitch. Note the left waistband finished in line with the folded edge of the fly bearer.
Sew an edge stitch along the top of the waist band and down both ends.
Overlock/serge one length of the belt loops, fold the opposite edge of the belt loop under the serged edge and sew an edge stitch down each side of the belt loop. Cut the belt loops in to 5 x 8cm/3 ¼” lengths, this allows a 1cm/3/8” seam to be turned under for each belt loop.
Turn the seam of the belt loops to the inside and sew across the top and the base of the belt loop with a top stitch, there is one at the centre back, one each side of the side back and side front. Refer to the markings on the pattern.
COMPLETION
Serge and turn the hem to the inside and sew with a top stitch.
Buttonhole the right waistband and sew a button the left waistband.
