CONSTRUCTION:
FRONT TUCKS:
Fold the five tucks on the Top Front (3) toward the centre front and pin, then secure with a basting stitch.
With RST sew the Lower Front (2) to the Top Front (3) at the tucked seam. Start sewing at the left side seam and finishing at the right side seam (follow A, B & C).
BOX PLEAT & TWIST:
Please see our YouTube tutorial for a more in depth look at constructing the box pleat.
With right side up (RSU) fold the box pleat along the foldline marked at the notch with a D; bring the fold downwards and align it with the notch marked D on the Lower Front.
With RSU fold the upper box pleat along foldine at the notch and bring it upwards (follow the direction of the arrow marked on the pattern) and align at the notch. Baste stitch the box pleat at the side seam to hold in place.
Fold the front dress at the waist seam with RST. With the front bodice on top, align the top A, B & C foldline to the lower front pleated seam marked A B & C – stitch from the side seam and finish at the end of the notch marked C. The twist is now complete.
BODY:
Fuse the armhole turnbacks with a stretch fusing (if your fabric requires).
With RST sew the front shoulder seams to the back shoulder seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
With RST sew the two short ends of the neckband together. Press the seam open.
Turn to the right side, fold in half lengthways and sew a basting stitch to the two raw edges. Lightly press.
With RST sew the neck band to the neck, aligning the notches. Note that the neckband is slightly stretched as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam down toward the bodice. Sew an edge stitch around the neckline on the side of the body.
With RST sew the front and back side seams together, start sewing at the under-arm and sew down to the hemline, aligning the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Neaten the armhole turn backs with an overlocker/serger.
Turn the armhole turn backs along the foldline to the inside of the body and sew them to the shoulder seam with a sink stitch (stitch in the ditch), followed by sink stitching the turn back at the under arm.
Turn the hem to the inside at the hem notch and top stitch into with a twin needle stitch or hand stitch.
Lightly press your new dress.
