CONSTRUCTION:
BODICE:
With right sides together (RST), sew the front (2) and back (1) bodice shoulder seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With RST sew the shoulder seams of the front and back neck facings (6 & 7) together, press the seam open and neaten the outer edges of the facings with an overlocker/serger.
With RST pin the neck facing to the neckline and sew using a 0.6mm (1/4″) seam. Clip around the neck seam. Turn the facing over to the inside of the garment and understitch the seam on the side of the facing, this helps to keep the facing from rolling out.
Press, then pin the facing to the body and sew a top stitch around the outer edges of the neck facing.
With RST sew the front and back bodice side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger, press to the back and clip into the shaped under arm seams.
With RST sew the underarm seams (short ends) of the sleeve facing (5) together and press open. Then with RST sew the sleeve facing to the sleeve opening, matching the notch to the shoulder seam. Fold the facing to the inside, press and pin the facing in place (no under stitching is sewn to the facing as you can have the option to fold the cuff up or leave it down).
Neaten the edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger. Pin the facing to the body and sew a top stitch around the outer edges of the facing.
Press the bodice and set aside. The faced armhole opening can be left down or turned back to create a cuff.
INSEAM POCKETS:
With RST and aligning notches, sew one set of pockets (8) to the front skirt (3) at the side seam (seamline ‘A’ on the pattern). Clip into the seam at the notches and sew an understitch on the side of the pocket bag.
With RST, lay pocket bag 2 on top of pocket bag 1, align and sew both pocket bags together (seamline ‘B’ on the pattern). Neaten around the pockets using an overlocker/serger. Secure stitch each end of the pocket opening.
Note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back skirt side seam.
SKIRT:
With RST sew the front skirt to back skirt (3) at the side seams. Start sewing at the waist seam, stitch down to the pocket, taking care not to catch the front pocket opening as you sew through the back pocket bag. Continue sewing down to the hemline. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger and press the seam toward the back.
From the inside sew the four hem darts and press toward the centre front and centre back.
With RST sew the side seams of the hem facings together, press the seams open and neaten the top edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With RST sew the hem facing to the hem of the skirt. Aligning the notches, turn to the right side and sew an under stitch close to the seam on the side of the facing. Pin the facing to the skirt and sew down with a top stitch along the top edge of the facing.
COMPLETION:
With RST sew the bodice to the skirt, neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.
If you prefer to have the sleeve to be cuffed, fold half of the width of the sleeve facing to the outside, press and sew a small hand stitch at the shoulder line and under arm.
Press your new dress.
