CONSTRUCTION:
FRONT BODY:
With RST sew the dart on the right top front (1) body. Neaten the dart seam with an overlocker/serger, press toward the side seam and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on the side of the seam.
With RST and matching the notches, sew the lower front panels (6) to the right top (1) and left side (3) fronts. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger, press towards the body and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
Sew the right side of the open-end zip to the right front (1) between the notches marked on the pattern.
Sew the left side of the zip to the left side front (3) between the notches marked on the pattern.
With RST sew the left top front (2) to the left side front (3) sandwiching the zip in between as you sew. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger, press the seam down and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam beside the zip.
BACK BODY
With RST sew the lower back angled panels to the back body panels, neaten the seams with an overlocker/serger, press upwards and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the centre back body seam, start at the neck and sew down to the lower panels making sure the seams match, then continue sewing to the hem. Neaten the seam with a overlocker/serger, press towards the left and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
INSEAM POCKETS:
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets (5) marked ‘A’ to the front side seam where marked ‘A’ on the pattern. Clip at the notches and under stitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides facing sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front panel, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket ‘B’ to ‘B’.
Neaten around the outer edges of the pocket with an overlocker/serger. Note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back side seam.
With RST sew the centre back collar seams together and press open.
With RST sew the front and back shoulder seams together, clip into the shoulder seam, keeping the needle down, turn the corner and continue sewing the collar to the back neck and across the opposite shoulder. Press the shoulder seams towards the back and the neck seam towards the collar.
With RST sew the back collar seams of the facings (4) together and press open.
Neaten the shoulder, armhole edge and outer edges of the facings with an overlocker/serger.
With RST pin the facings to the body, once in place sew the facing to the body, starting at the hemline, stitch together sandwiching the right-side zip in between as you sew. Continue sewing around the collar finishing back at the opposite hem line.
With RST sew the hem of the facing to the hem of the body, clip the corner and turn out.
Pin the facing to the body, once in place sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitching around the facing seam.
Sew the shoulder of the facing to the shoulder of the body and sew the armhole of the facing to the armhole of the front body.
With RST sew the front and back side seams together, start sewing at the under arm, stitch down to the pocket, take care not to catch the front pocket as you sew through the back pocket bag, continue sewing down to the hemline. Neaten the seam with a overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the back.
SLEEVES AND COMPLETION
With RST sew the lower top sleeve (cuff) (10) to the top sleeve (9), press the seam upwards and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the back seam of the top sleeve to the under sleeve (11), neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger, press the seam towards the top sleeve and sew a 6mm (¼”) top stitch on top of the seam.
With RST sew the top sleeve to the under sleeve matching the notches as you sew. Neaten the seams with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back sleeve.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and ease in slightly as this makes it easier when sewing the sleeve into the armhole.
With RST sew the sleeve into the armhole matching the notches as you sew, neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the sleeve.
Turn the hem of the body and the hem of the sleeves to the inside and stitch with a hand stitch or a machine stitch.
Attached the snaps (studs) to the collar and body as marked on the pattern, these are optional.
Press your new jacket.
