CONSTRUCTION:
POCKETS
Overlock/serge the unnotched edge of the pocket facings, then position them on top of the right side of the pocket bag, matching the notches on the side seams, creating a pair. Top stitch along the overlocked edge, then baste the edges of the facing to the lining.
Fold the pocket bag in half right sides together. Sew the bottom edge of the pocket 1cm (3/8”) and neaten with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together (RST) and matching the notches, sew the edge of the pocket without facing to the front side seam. Clip the notches, push the seam toward the pocket bag and understitch the seam on the inside of the pocket bag (between the notches). Position the edge of the pocket with the facing to the side seams, baste the pocket to the side seams, matching the notches and take note of the pocket opening. Baste the top edge of the pocket to the front waist seam.
LEG TUCKS
Take the pant fronts and with the right side down, pinch the pleat so the notches meet; fold the point up so the edges align with the side seam. Baste the tucks into place on the side seam.
MAIN PANT
With RST, sew the front and back inseams together.
Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Top stitch the inseams 6mm (1/4”). With RST, sew the crotch seams together; start at the back and continue sewing all the way around the crotch finishing at the front waistband. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to one side. Top stitch the crotch seam 6mm (1/4”).
With RST, sew the front and back legs together, starting at the waist and continuing down the leg to the hem, stitching through the straight edge of the under pocket ensuring not to catch the front pocket opening as you sew. Overlock/serge the seam and press toward the back.
WAISTBAND
With RST sew the centre back seam of the waistband together and press open. Fold the waistband in half lengthways with wrong sides together (WST) and press. This pressed line will be a guide for the elastic. Cut the elastic to your personal length. Lay one end over the other and securely stitch together.
Sandwich the elastic inside the folded waistband and sew a stay stitch to the two cut edges of the waistband to encase the elastic and hold the edges of the waistband in place.
Stretch the waistband and elastic to obtain an even spread, then stitch through the waistband at the centre front, back and outer leg seams, from the folded edge to the raw edge. This is to stop the elastic from rolling.
Pin the raw edge of the waistband to the waist of the pant, matching the notches. Stitch together, stretching the waistband and elastic as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press downwards.
HEMS AND COMPLETION
Neaten the hem of the leg openings with an overlocker/serger. Fold hems to the inside at the hem notch and topstitch, with a twin needle, or carefully sew two parallel lines.
Lightly press your new pants.