Heidi Hooded Cardi

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CONSTRUCTION:

POCKETS:More More TUTORIALS (19)
Neaten the top edge of the Pockets (10) with an overlocker/serger. With right sides facing fold the top edge of the pocket over, sew down the fold on the edge closest to the front, make sure you have a pair. Clip the corner and turn to the right side and press, sew a topstitch across the pocket top. Turn the seam of the pocket that is the closest to the centre front to the inside and press.

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Pin the pocket to the Front (2) body where marked on the pattern. One outer edge and the base of the pocket are to be pinned to the side seam and lower edge of the front body. Once in place sew the side and lower edges to the seam allowance and edge stitch the side of the pocket with the pressed under seam closest to the centre front to secure to the body of the cardi.

BODY AND HOOD:

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With the right sides facing sew the Back (1) and Front (2) shoulder seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.

With the right sides facing sew the centre back Hood (4) seams together, press to the right and sew a 6mm (1/4”) topstitch on top of the seam to keep it flat (there is no need to overlock this seam as the hood is lined).

With the right sides together sew the hood to the neckline matching the notches as you sew. Clip into the shoulder seam at the neck edge in preparation for when the shoulder seam of the hood lining is attached.

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With the right sides together sew the centre back seams of the Hood Lining (9) together, press towards the left and sew a 6mm (1/4”) topstitch on top of the seam.

Neaten the shoulders and front lower edge of the hood lining with an overlocker/serger. Note the armhole seam of the hood lining will be neatened after the sleeves are sewn in.

With the right sides facing sew the Back (1) and Front (2) side seams of the body together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.

HEM BAND:

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With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams of the Hem Bands (6 & 7) together.

Press the seams open and with the right side on the outer fold the hem band in half lengthways and sew a stay stitch to the cut edges to hold in place.

With right sides facing sew the hem band to the body matching at the side seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.

Sew an edge stitch on top of the seam on the side of the body.

FRONT BAND AND HOOD:

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With right sides facing sew the top seam of the Hood Bands (5) together, press the seam open. With the right sides facing fold the hood band in half lengthways and stitch across each end/hem of the band. Turn out to the right side and press in half lengthways with wrong sides together, then stay stitch the raw edges and press.

With the right sides facing sew the band to the centre front and the hood. Start at the base of the hem band, pin into place being sure to match the notches and sew up to the neckline, then continue sewing around the hood and down the opposite side.

Neaten with an overlocker/serger from the hem to the notch indicating the base of the hood lining.

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With the right sides facing, sew the centre front edge of the Hood Lining (9) to the seam of the front band, sandwiching the band in between the hood lining and the hood. Sew around the hood and finish at the opposite side of the body. Turn to the right side and press the seam towards the body.
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Sew an edge stitch around the completed band and hood on the side of the body.

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With the wrong sides together pin the hood lining to the hood in several areas to hold in place. Sew the shoulder seams of the hood lining to the shoulder seams of the body. Start at the clipped neck edge and sew along the shoulder seam finishing at the armhole. Press the shoulder seam towards the back.

With the neck edge of the shoulder seam clipped and with wrong sides together turn the seam allowance of the hood lining neck edge to the inside and sew the neck seam of the hood lining to the neck of the body with a stitch in the ditch.

Stay stitch the armhole edge of the hood lining to the armhole seam to secure in place.

SLEEVES AND CUFFS:

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With right sides facing sew the underarm Sleeve (3) seams together, overlock/serge the seam and press towards the back.

With the right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armhole matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the sleeve.

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To make the Cuffs (8), with the right sides facing sew the two short edges together and turn out to the right side. Fold in half lengthways with wrong sides facing and stay stitch the raw edges together.

With right sides facing pin the stay stitched edges to the sleeve opening, matching the seams, once in place stitch together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.

Sew an edge stitch on top of the seam on the side of the sleeve.

COMPLETION:
Sew a stud or button/buttonhole to the front band as marked on the pattern or choose your own position. This is optional.

Lightly press your new cardi.