SLEEVE 1:
With right sides facing sew the sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Referring to the elastic size chart, cut the two lengths of the elastic for the sleeves. Lay one edge on top of the other and securely stitch together. Neaten the sleeve opening with an overlocker/serger and turn the sleeve hem in and encase the elastic as you sew.
SLEEVE 2:
With right sides facing sew the sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
Sew two rows of a large gathering stitch between the notches at the sleeve opening and gather up to match the length of the cuff.
With right side facing sew the two short ends of the cuff together. Press the seam open, turn to the right side and fold in half lengthways.
Sew a stay stitch to the two raw edges to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the cuff to the sleeve opening. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the sleeve.
SLEEVE 3:
Pin the sleeve tucks where marked on the pattern, once in place sew the tucks finishing at the markings noted on the pattern. Note that the lower tuck is shorter in length than the tuck that sits above.
Press the tucks downward.
Neaten each sleeve seam with an overlocker/serger. With right sides facing sew the sleeve seams together and press open. The sleeve seam is pressed open due to the bulk of the tucks.
Neaten the sleeve opening with an overlocker/serger the sleeve, turn to the inside and stitch the hem.
BODICE A:
Neaten each centre front seam with an overlocker/serger from the waist up to the notch that indicates the front split. With right sides facing sew the centre front seams together from the waist stopping at the front split notch.
Double turn the split opening and pin in place, sew a topstitch down each side and across the base of the centre front neck opening.
With right side facing sew the front and back side seams together, neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam toward the back.
Select your previously made sleeves. With right sides facing sew the front and back armhole sleeve seams to the front and back bodice matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seams toward the sleeve.
Using a large stitch, gather up the front neck to the length of the front neck stay once this is done sew the stay to the wrong side of the front bodice to prevent stretching.
Sew the back neck stay/stabilizer to the inside of the back bodice and the sleeve stays/stabilizers to the inside neck edge of the sleeves to prevent stretching.
With right sides facing join the neck bindings together, press the seam open.
Fold the seam allowance of one of the long edges inward and press.
With right sides facing pin the unpressed edge of the binding to the inside neck matching the centre back seam of the binding to the centre back of the bodice.
Once in place sew the binding to the neck pushing the seam toward the binding.
Fold the binding over to the outside of the bodice neck and lay the pressed edge of the binding covering the previous row of stitching and pin in place.
Sew the binding down using an edge stitch along the folded/pressed edge of the binding. When arriving at the ties continue sewing the binding along the length of both ties. Turn the ends of the ties inward before arriving at the ends of the ties.
Trim away the excess neck stays.
Sew the bodice to the Hope Dress skirt.
BODICE B:
With right side facing sew the front and back side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam toward the back.
Select your previously made sleeves. With right sides facing sew the front and back armhole sleeve seams to the front and back bodice matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the sleeve.
With right sides together sew the shoulder seams of the front and back fused neck facings together. Neaten the outer edges of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing sew the neck facing the bodice neckline taking care not to stretch the neckline whilst sewing. Turn to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing.
Wrap the right front waist line over the left matching the centre front notches, once in place sew together with a stay stitch.
Sew the completed bodice to the Hope Dress skirt and press.
An optional snap can be sewn at the centre front cross over point if concerned the neck may gape open.
BODICE C:
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Select your previously made sleeves. With right sides facing sew the front and back armhole sleeve seams to the front and back bodice matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the sleeve.
With right sides together sew the shoulder seams of the front and back fused neck facings together. Neaten the outer edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides facing fold the front turn back along the noted fold line and pin the neck facing to the neck of the bodice. Once in place stitch together.
Turn the facing out to the right side and an understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing and press.
Pin the facing to the bodice and sew a feature topstitch around the outer edges of the facing.
Buttonhole the right front as marked on the pattern and sew corresponding buttons on the left front.
Lay the right front over the left matching the centre front notch marked on the waist seam on the front bodice. Once in place sew a stay stitch to hold in place.
Sew the completed bodice to the Hope Dress skirt and press.