Construction
- With right sides together fold back and press the front panel where marked on the pattern toward the inside of the garment (wrong sides together.) Now turn back the folded edges so right sides are together, but do not press. Starting from the folded edge, stitch across the top edge of the neck edge (the longer folded back edge), keeping the needle down when you reach the corner. Lift up the presser foot and cut into the corner at a 45 degree angle. Pivot the fabric, placing the long folded edge of the fabric under the needle. Sew down the turned back neck edge until the marked notch. Repeat this process for the hemline. SEE DIAGRAM.
- With right sides together sew the side front panel to the centre front panel, starting at point “A” and continuing down to the hem edge. SEE DIAGRAM.
- Starting from point “A”, sew the collar to the centre front panel as marked on the pattern. SEE DIAGRAM.
- Sew the side front panel and collar together from point “A” to point “E”. SEE DIAGRAM.
- Stitch the lower front sleeve to the top front sleeve.
- Sew the lower back sleeve to the top back sleeve.
- Stitch the dart in the under sleeve. Sew the under sleeve to the back sleeve, following the notches. Do not sew the under sleeve to the front sleeve at this point. It will be easier to work with the jacket flat (side seams not joined.)
- Sew the top (shoulder) seam of the back and front sleeves together.
- Sew the centre back body seams together.
- Sew the side back panel to the centre back body.
- Sew the upper back sleeve and undersleeve to the raglan armhole of the side back and centre back panels.
- Sew the centre back seam of the hem facing pieces, right sides together.
- Sew the front vertical edge of the hem facing to the turned up hem at the front panel. From the inside sew the lower edge of the hem facing to the body, following the notches. Turn the facing to the right side and understitch the seam allowance of the hem to the lower edge of the hem facing.
- Sew the under sleeve seam to the front sleeve. Continue stitching down the seam to sew the back and front side seams together.
- Sew the centre back seam of the collar, right sides together. Fold back the upper edge of the collar toward the inside of the garment and press.
- Sew the lower edge of the collar to the body, starting and stopping at the points marked “E”.
Lining
- Stitch the centre back lining pieces together.
- Sew the side back lining panels to the centre back.
- Stitch the centre back pleat as marked at the neck.
- Stitch the side front lining and side back lining pieces together at the side seam.
- Stitch the under sleeve tuck.
- Sew all three of the sleeve lining pieces together, following the notches. Make sure to leave a small opening in the left under sleeve as marked by the notches on the pattern. This will be used to turn out the jacket when attaching the lining to the main body.
- Sew the sleeves into the raglan armholes of the lining, following the notches.
- Stitch the front facings together at the centre back seam.
- Stitch the front facing to the lining. Make sure to press the entire lining shell.
- Join the lining to the body. Start by sewing the lining to the main body at the front hemline. When you get to the corner where the front hemline attached to the front vertical edge, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, and keep sewing until you get to the base of the folded-back collar. Once again leave the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric before continuing to sew the base of the collar to the lining. Keep sewing completely around until you arrive back where you started. Understitch the shell to the lining if necessary.
- Sew the lower edge of the sleeve lining to lower edge of the main sleeve hem. To accomplish this start by pulling both the lining and main sleeve to the wrong side. Pin the edges together, being extra careful not to twist the sleeves. Once it is pinned, sew together.
- Pull the entire garment through the left sleeve opening to the right side. Stitch up the opening.
Completion of Your Jacket
- Sew the right zipper tape to the inside of the right front turned back edge. The zipper teeth should face toward the folded-back edge of the centre front. Note the zipper placement line marked on the pattern.
- Stitch the left zipper tape to the front/side front seam of the left front. The zipper teeth should face toward the centre front. SEE DIAGRAM.
- Topstitch the front panel 3cm (1.5″) from the folded edge. Start by sewing along the bottom hemline edge of the left front where the centre front panel is sewn to the side front panel. At 3cm (1.5″) from the folded-back centre front edge stop sewing with the needle down. Lift the presser foot, turn the corner, then continue sewing all the way up to about 3cm (1.5″) away from the upper edge of the collar. Once again sewing with the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the corner, then continue sewing along the top edge of the collar. Continue sewing back down the right centre front edge and along the hem of the right centre front, stopping where the right centre front is sewn to the right front side panel. SEE DIAGRAM.
- Sew the press studs into the hemline. The top stud is sewn to the centre front panel next to the side front seam. The under stud is sewn next to the fold of the left centre front edge. Refer to the markings on the pattern and diagram.
- Tack the inside underarm of the lining to the seam allowance of the main body; this is to hold the lining in place.
- If your jacket isn’t leather give it a final press.