NECKBAND & BODICE:
Fuse the back neck band, front neck band (and fold in half lengthwise wrong sides together), back waist insert and front waist insert & ties up until marked fuse line on the pattern.
With right sides facing sew the top edges of the back neck seam together, turn to the right side and sew an understitch close to the seam on the inside neck band.
With right sides facing sew the front neck band (folded) to the back neck band at shoulder seams. Press seams open.
With wrong sides facing press the neckband pieces back in half lengthways and neaten the inside edge of the the neckband with an overlocker/serger and set aside until you reach step 11 on construction sheet.
With right sides facing, pin and sew the front bodice darts and neaten with an overlocker/serger and press down.
Following the markings on the pattern, pin the back bodice tucks facing the folds of both sides toward the centre back. Once in place sew along the base of the tucks with a stay stitch and lightly press.
With right sides facing sew the front and back shoulder seams together, neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Then sew the front and back side seams together, neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Sew a stay stitch around the front and back neckline (not pictured).
With right sides facing pin the outer (raw) edge of the neckband to the neck, matching the notches. Once in place sew together. Press seam allowance towards the neckband.
Turn to the correct side of the fabric and sew an edge stitch around the neckline on the side of the band, close to the seam. This secures the inner neckband to the outer neckband (not pictured).
SLEEVES:
SHORT SLEEVES: (Note the lower section of sleeve is double fabric)
Sew the darts in the lower sleeves and press toward the centre.
With right sides facing sew each of the under-arm seams of the lower sleeves together and press open.
With right sides facing sew the lower seams of the lower sleeves together. Press seam towards one side.
Turn to the right side of the fabric and sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the under sleeve, sewing through the seam allowance.
Sew a stay stitch to the cut edges of the lower sleeve to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the under-arm seams of the upper sleeves together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
With right sides facing sew the upper sleeves to the lower sleeves, neaten and press the seam upward.
Turn to the right side of the fabric and sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the upper sleeve.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly draw in, (not gathered) this makes it easier to sew the sleeve head into the armhole.
(Not pictured) With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches as you sew.
3/4 LENGTH SLEEVES:
With right sides together sew the under-arm sleeve seams together. Neaten with overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Cut the elastic to your personal length and stitch ends together securely. Turn up the sleeve opening 6mm and press, then staystitch close to the fold to make it easier to sew the elastic in. Press the seam allowance up at the notch. Encase the elastic inside the turn up as you sew, stitching on top of the stay stitching, but not catching the elastic as you sew (not pictured).
(Not pictured) Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly draw in (not gathered), this makes it easier to sew the sleeve head into the armhole.
With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
POCKETS & SKIRT:
With right sides together sew one set of the pockets marked “A” to the front side seam marked “A” on the pattern, clip at the notches. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides together sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket “B” to “B”, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back-body’s side seam. Neaten with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the front side seam to the back side seam, start sewing the seams together at the waist, and continue down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew. Be careful not to catch the front pocket opening, continue sewing the side seam finishing at the hemline. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Press the seam allowance of the straight edge of the front skirt to the inside, at the first notch.
With right sides facing fold the front turn back at the hem, following notches. Once in place sew to the edge of the turnback. Clip the corners. Neaten skirt hem with overlocker/serger. Turn out the front hem turnback and press.
Fold and press the front turnback at the second notch. Once in place stitch down the inner fold line with an edge stitch and continue along the hem of the skirt.
WAISTBAND:
With right sides facing sew the shorter edges of the front and back waistbands together, leaving a 2.5 cm/1 ” opening in both the right side seams to enable the undertie to be threaded through when the dress is wrapped. Press seams open.
With right sides facing pin together one of the waistbands to the bodice, matching the notches and side seams. Once in place sew together.
Take the remaining waistband and with the right side facing the wrong side of the bodice, pin together, matching the notches and side seams, sandwiching the bodice in between the two waistbands. Once in place sew together, continuing to the end of the ties.
Turn to the correct side of the fabric and understitch the inner waistband, finishing at the edge of the front bodice.
With right sides facing pin the outer waistband to the waist of the skirt, matching notches and side seams and stitch (not pictured). Bag out the ties by folding them lengthways with right sides together. Stitch the short ends together and with the needle down, turn corner and sew to the inner edge of the front skirt turnback. Clip the corners and turn out to the right side (not pictured).
Neaten the bottom edge of the inner waistband. Press and pin the inner waistband flat to the skirt. From the correct side of the fabric, sew in place with a stitch in the ditch (sink stitch).
Sew an edge stitch around the right side seam waistband opening.
COMPLETION:
If required sew a snap to the front bodice band as marked on the pattern or to your personal bust position.
Lightly press your new dress.