CONSTRUCTION
POCKETS/SIDE PANELS:
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets marked “A” to the front side seam marked “A” on the pattern, clip at the notches. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and sew an understitch close to the seam on the
side of the pocket bag.
With right sides together sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket “B” to “B”, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the blackbody’s side seam. Neaten with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the front side seam to the back side seam, start sewing the seams together at the underarm and continue down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew. Be careful not to catch the front pocket opening, continue sewing the side seam finishing at the hemline.
Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
BODY:
With right sides facing sew the sleeve gusset to the under arm of the front and back side seams and overlock/serge.
With right sides facing sew the centre front seams together followed by sewing the shoulders of the front body to the shoulder panels matching the notches as you sew. Overlock/serge the seams together and press the front seam toward the wearer’s right and the shoulder seams toward the back.
With right sides facing sew the front panel to the side front panel, when arriving at the gusset point clip into the corner of the front panel and continue sewing to the sleeve opening, overlock/serge the seam and press towards centre front.
Overlock/serge each centre back seam and then sew the invisible zip to the back seam. Once inserted sew the centre back seam from the hem to the base of the zip. For more information visit the ‘Invisible Zip Tutorial’.
With right sides facing sew the back panel to the side panel, when arriving at the gusset point clip into the corner of the back panel and continue sewing to the sleeve opening, overlock/serge the seam and press towards centre back.
With right sides facing sew the back body to the back sleeve insert, matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the shoulder seams of the front and back facings together, press the seams open and overlock/serge around the outer edges of the facing.
With right sides together sew the neck facing to the neck of the body, turn to the right side and sew an understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing.
From the inside stitch down the centre back seams of the facing close to the zip tape.
Sew a hand stitch at the shoulder of the facing to the seam on the body to hold the facing in place.
SLEEVE TUCKS/CUFFS:
Pin the tucks as marked on the sleeve opening, once in place sew a stay stitch along the edge to hold the tucks in place.
With right sides facing sew the two short ends of the cuff together, turn to the right side and press in half lengthways. Sew a stay stitch to the raw edges of the cuff to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the cuff to the sleeve opening matching the seam on the cuff marked “C” to the centre notch marked “C” on the gusset. Overlock/serge the seams and press upward.
Turn the hem to the inside and double turn or overlock/serge and topstitch.
Press your new dress!
