CONSTRUCTION
BODICE:
Fuse or stitch the stabilizer to the neck of the front lining and the neck of one back yoke.
Sew the bust darts on the front under bodice (lining) and press down followed by sewing the centre front seams together stopping at the * marking on the pattern and press open, no need to overlock/serge the seams as it is lined.
Pin the two waist tucks toward the side seams, secure with a stay stitch and press.
With right sides facing sew the centre front seams of the front bodice together stopping at the * and press open.
Sew a large gathering stitch to the shoulder seams of the front bodice and draw in to match the length of the under bodice (lining) shoulder.
Sew a large gathering stitch at the ‘cut out’ section of the front bodice where marked on the pattern and draw up to match the notches on the front under panel.
With right sides facing sew the shoulder seams of one yoke to the front under bodice (lining) shoulder seams and the other yoke to the shoulder of the front bodice. Press the shoulder seams toward the back.
With right sides facing sew the inner and outer necklines together, start at the centre front ‘V’, marked with a *. Sew around the neckline finishing back at the centre front.
Turn out to the right side and understitch close to the neck seam on the side of the under bodice (lining).
Shir the front shirring panel by following the shirring notches marked on the pattern piece and press.
With wrong sides facing pin the front under panel to the shirring panel, these should be similar sizes. Once in place stay stitch the outer edges together.
With right sides facing sew the long edges and the angled short end together for each waist tie. Clip the corners, turn out and press.
With right sides facing sew the ties into the seams on each side of the completed shirred panel.
Sew the shirring piece and ties into the ‘cut out’ section of the front bodice.
Match the notches so that the gathered under bust section on the front bodice is sewn between the notches on the front under panel. Clip into the corners and press outward.
Sew a large gathering stitch to the top edge of the back body where marked on the pattern and draw in to match the markings on the back yoke pattern.
With right sides facing, sandwich the back bodice in between the two back yokes matching the notches, once in place stitch together. Press the seams upward.
Secure the front bodice and the front lining together at the side seams with a stay stitch.
Secure the waist of the front bodice to the waist of the lining with a stay stitch.
If not using the shirring piece sew the front under panel and ties into the front bodice.
SKIRT:
Sew a large gathering stitch to the middle section of the front skirt waist where marked on the pattern, draw in to match the length of the shirred panel on the bodice.
With right sides facing sew the waist of the front bodice to the front skirt matching the notches followed by sewing the waist of the back bodice to the waist of the back skirt. Overlock/serge the seams and press the seams upward.
Overlock/serge the side seams of the skirt and body for open seams to get ready to insert the invisible zip.
Sew the under-arm seam of the left bodice from the armhole down to the top zip notch.
Insert the invisible zip into the left side seams between the notches. Refer to the Style Arc invisible zip tutorial on www.stylearc.com.
Once zip is inserted, sew the lower section of the left side seam from the hem up to the base of the zip. Press the seam open.
Sew the right side seams of the front and back skirt and bodice together from the hemline up to the underarm and press open.
Double turn the hem and stitch in place. Alternatively, overlock/serge the raw edge of the hem, turn up once and 10-18 stitch in place.
SLEEVES:
Sew a narrow double turned hem to the top and base of the cuff.
Shir the cuff following the notches on the pattern.
Overlock/serge the base of the sleeve and pin the top row of shirring to the sleeve along the seam line, once in place sew the cuff to the sleeve along the top row of shirring to create a ruffle, stretching the cuff as you sew.
With right sides facing sew the underarm sleeve seams together from the underarm through the shirred cuff.
Overlock/serge the underarm seam of the sleeves and press toward the back.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly draw in. With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches as you sew.
Overlock/serge the armhole seams and press toward the sleeve.
If you prefer no shirring, you can finish off the sleeve by encasing elastic to your personal measurement to the base of the sleeve.
Press your new dress!
