CONSTRUCTION:
BODICE:
From the inside sew the bust darts and press downwards.
From the inside sew the back bodice darts and press towards the side seams.
With right sides facing sew the back and front shoulders together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the front and back body side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides together sew the shoulder seams of the neck facing together, press the seams open.
With right sides together sew the facing to the neck of the body. Turn to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing.
Neaten the outer edge of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
SLEEVE 1 – DOUBLE FLUTED SLEEVE
Finely double turn the hems of the sleeves, you can do this using a rolled hem foot on your sewing machine.
With right sides facing sew the under sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Pin a shorter sleeve over a longer sleeve to create the double layered sleeve and sew the raw edges of the sleeve heads together with a stay stitch to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armhole. Neaten the armholes with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the sleeve.
SLEEVE 2 – ELBOW LENGTH SLEEVE WITH DOUBLE FRILL AND GATHERED HEAD
Finely double turn the hems of the frills (using your rolled hem foot on your sewing machine if you have one).
With right sides facing sew the short edges of the frills together to create four circular frills. Neaten the short edges with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Lay a shorter frill over a longer frill to create the double layered frill and sew the raw edges together with a stay stitch to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the under sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Sew a large gathering stitch around the raw edges of the frills and gather up to match the length of the sleeve opening.
With right sides facing sew the gathered up frill to the sleeve opening.
Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and gather between the notches marked on the pattern. With right sides facing sew the sleeve into the armhole matching the notches and making sure your gathering is even as you sew.
Fold the sleeve head roll in half and sew the raw edges together using a large stitch between the notches. Gather up the sleeve head roll to match the notches on the armhole. Sew the gathered edge to the inside of armhole, neaten the armholes with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
SLEEVE 3 – PLAIN SHORT SLEEVE
With right sides facing sew the underarm sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly ease in, this makes it easier to sew the sleeve into the armhole.
With right sides facing, sew the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
Neaten the sleeve opening with an overlocker/serger, turn the sleeve hem to the inside and hand stitch. Alternatively you can double turn the sleeve hem and machine or hand stitch.
SLEEVE 4 – LONG SLEEVE WITH A SHIRRED CUFF AND GATHERED HEAD
Sew a narrow double turned hem to the top and the base of the cuff, you can do this with a rolled hem foot if you have one.
Sew 7 rows of shirring on the cuff, following the notches on the pattern.
Neaten the base of the sleeve with an overlocker/serger.
With the right side of the sleeve matching the wrong side of the cuff, pin the top row of shirring on the cuff to the base of the sleeve along the seam line. Once in place sew the cuff to the sleeve along the top of the shirring to create a ruffle, stretching the cuff as you sew.
With right sides facing sew the under sleeve seams together from the underarm through the shirred cuff, finish with a back stitch. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Sew a large stitch to the head of the sleeve and gather between the notches marked on the pattern. With right sides facing sew the sleeve into the armhole matching the notches and making sure your gathering is even as you sew.
Fold the sleeve head roll in half and sew the raw edges together using a large stitch between the notches. Gather up the sleeve head roll to match the notches on the armhole. Sew the gathered edge to the inside of the armhole, neaten the armholes with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
SKIRT:
Sew the darts in the back skirt and press towards the side seam.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together and press towards the back. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the bodice to the skirt matching the side seams and back darts together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press downwards.
Neaten each centre back seam with an overlocker/serger from neckline to the hem.
Sew the invisible zip into the centre back seam where marked on the pattern. Refer to the invisible zip tutorial if you need help sewing your zipper.
Sew the centre back seam from the hemline finishing at the base of the zip, press the seam open.
If not having a hem frill, double turn the hem of the skirt, finish with a handstitched hem and press. bodice to the skirt matching the side seams and back darts together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press downwards.
OPTIONAL FRILL:
With right sides facing, sew the short edges of the frill together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to one side.
Double turn one edge of the frill (this will become the hem) and stitch, you can do this with a rolled hem foot if you have one.
Sew 2 two rows of large gathering stitches along the remaining raw edge. Gather up the frill to match the hem circumference of the skirt. With right sides facing, pin the frill to the skirt hem, making sure your gathering is even. Once in place, sew the frill to the skirt. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.
COMPLETION:
Turn the centre back edge of the facing over the zip so that the right sides are sides are together. Stitch the facing edge to the zip tape close to the zip, clip the corner and turn out to the right side.
Hand stitch the neck facing to the shoulder seam of the bodice to hold the facing in place.
Sew an optional hook and eye at the top of the zip.
Press your finished dress.