POCKETS & FRONT BODY
Neaten the top edge of the pockets with an overlocker/serger. Fold the pocket top over with right sides facing, sew down each side of the turnover, clip the corners and turn the pocket top out to the right side.
Fold the three remaining pocket seams inwards and press.
Pin the pockets to the front pieces, as marked on the pattern. From the correct side of the fabric sew around the three outer edges with an edge stitch.
With right sides facing sew the rounded edges of the pocket flap. Turn out to the correct side and press.
Pin the pocket flaps to the lower front body seam following the notches on the pattern, ensuring the pocket flaps align with the pockets. Once in place stay stitch along the top edge of the pocket flap.
With right sides facing sew the front yokes to the front pieces. The pocket flap is sandwiched in between the yoke and the front body. Neaten the yoke seam with the overlocker/serger and press upwards.
From the correct side of the fabric sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch along this seam, on the side of the front yoke.
With right sides facing sew the front hem facings to the fronts, press seam towards the hem facing and sew an edge stitch on the side of the facing and pin the hem facing up to the body, don’t stitch until the side seams are sewn.
With the right side of the left front tab facing the wrong side of the left front, sew down the front seam, starting at the neckline and sewing through the hem facing.
Fold and press the outer edge seam allowance of the tab inwards.
With right sides facing, sew across the base of the front tab, clip the corners, turn out and press.
Turn to the correct side of the fabric and pin the left front tab to the front body. Once in place stitch down with an edge stitch, ensuring you cover the previous stitch line.
Fuse the marked section of the right front tab (for buttonholes). Note the inside fly when folded will be 3mm (1/8”) narrower than the top tab.
Fold the right front tab along (D), towards the wrong side of the fabric. Turn the tab over and stitch down along the seam allowance matching (C) and (E).
Fold along (B) and press.
Fold (B) towards (D), use the previous stitch line to guide your fold.
Pin down the folded tab along the previous stitch line and from the correct side of the fabric stitch down with an edge stitch on the tab side, securing the right front tab to the body.
Following the notches on pattern, pin and press the back pleat. Once in place sew with a stay stitch.
With right sides facing sew the back hem facing to the back piece, press seam towards the hem facing and edge stitch on the facing side (not pictured).
Sandwich the back bodice between the two back yokes, sew and press upward. Sew a 3mm (1/8”) top stitch across the back yoke seam.
Roll the whole back body up with the right side on the inside then pin to keep it out of the way.
Pin front shoulder to top yoke shoulder seam and sew on each side, roll front yokes up and pin to keep out of the way.
Roll the whole back body up with the right side on the inside then pin to keep it out of the way.
Pin front shoulder to top yoke shoulder seam and sew on each side, roll front yokes up and pin to keep out of the way.
Cover the rolled pieces with the inner yoke, then sew the front yoke seams together. Pull through and turn out to the right side.
Press and sew a 3mm (1/8”) top stitch across the shoulder seams, on the yoke side. Sew a stay stitch around the back neckline, to prevent any stretching.
With right sides facing sew the side seams together, continuing through the hem facings. Neaten seam with overlocker/serger and press to the back.
Fold and press the hem facing towards the inside. Press the top seam allowance of the hem facing towards the inside. Pin the hem facing down to the body, once in place top stitch down.
COLLAR
Fuse both collar and collar stand pieces.
With right sides facing, sew the outer edge of the collars together, press seam to one side. Turn to the correct side of the fabric and understitch, through the seam allowance. This will become the outer collar.
Place the collar between the collar stands, matching notches as you sew, sandwiching the collar between the two collar stands.
Turn through to the right side and understitch the upper edge of the collar stand.
Press the lower edge of the outer collar stand inward, towards wrong side of fabric.
Sew the inside collar stand to the neckline matching the notches. Press seam upward.
Sew the outer collar stand to the neckline with an edge stitch on the side of the collar stand, continuing the edge stitch completely around the collar stand.
With wrong sides together fold and press the centre sleeve tab in half lengthways and stay stitch along the raw edges to hold in place. With right sides facing sandwich the sleeve tab between the two sleeve seams, stitch together, overlock/serge the seams and press the seams towards the back.
Lay the sleeve tab toward the front and sew a stay stitch to the head and the base of the sleeve to hold the tab in place.
Sew a 6mm/1/4″ topstitch down the seam line on the side of the sleeve through the seam allowance.
With right sides together sew the under-sleeve seams together (not pictured).
With right sides facing sew the two short ends of the cuff together, press the seam open, turn to the right side and fold in half.
Sew the inner edge of the cuff to the sleeve opening, press the seam downward followed by pressing the seam of the outer cuff to the inside and pin the cuff to the sleeve, once in place sew a sink stitch or stitch in the ditch along the seam.
With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armhole, note the folded edge of the tab aligns with the shoulder seam.
COMPLETION
Sew the buttonholes to the right under front tab as marked on the pattern.
Sew buttons to the left front in line with the buttonholes.
Press your completed jacket.
