CONSTRUCTION:
FRONT POCKET/PLEAT:
Fold the front waist pleat and stitch down to the mark on the pattern, press the pleat toward the centre front and stay stitch along the waist to hold in place.
With wrong sides facing press the pocket binding in half lengthways, press and stay stitch the long edges together to hold in place.
Fuse the angled edges of the pocket bags and the front pocket openings, this is to prevent the pocket opening from stretching once sewn.
With right sides facing sew the pocket bind to the pocket opening on the front leg and press.
With right sides facing sew the pocket bag to the pocket opening sandwiching the binding in between as you sew.
Press the pocket seams and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag.
With right sides facing sew the pocket bearer to the pocket bag to create a pocket. Neaten the outer edge of the pocket with an overlocker/serger.
Sew an edge stitch along the pocket opening close to the seam on the side of the front leg
Pin the pocket bag and pocket bearer together and staystitch along the waist and side seam to hold the pocket in place.
FLY ZIP:
Click here to watch a fly zip video tutorial
Neaten the rounded edge of the fly facing with an overlocker/serger. With right sides together sew the fly facing to the centre front seam on the right leg. Turn the fly over to the right side and understitch on the side of the fly facing.
With right sides together sew one edge of the zip tape to the left front.
With wrong sides together press the fly bearer in half lengthways and staystitch the long edges together. Neaten the long edge and base with an overlocker/serger.
Sandwich the zip tape between the fly bearer and the front seam and stitch together.
Turn to face and edge stitch close to the seam on the side of the front.
Sew the left and right sides together along the front crotch seam leaving the lower crotch seam open for when joining it to the back crotch seam.
Fold the right front to the left and stitch the zip to the fly facing approximately 2cm (¾”) in from the seam edge. Be sure to keep the bearer out of the way.
With the bearer still out of the way, return the right front to its place and topstitch around the right fly.
Return the bearer to its place and from the inside, stitch the bearer to the curve of the fly facing to secure to the right front.
POCKET WELT:
Sew the back waist darts and press towards the centre back.
With right side on the outer press the fused welt in half lengthways and stay stitch along the cut edges to hold in place. Sew the welt to the right back leg where marked on the pattern with the raw edges facing the waist.
With right sides facing sew the pocket bag along the welt stitch line, turn to the right side and understitch on the side of the pocket bag.
With right side facing sew the pocket bearer above the welt seam.
Cut into the corners and through the middle >———-<
Turn the welt out to the right side and post the pocket bag and the bearer through the cut to the inside.
Press the angled cut section < & > to the outer and sew through these cut angles catching the welt, pocket bag and bearer together creating a pocket. Neaten around the pocket with an overlocker/serger.
LEGS:
We suggest before the legs are sewn to press the wide cuff hem. This works as a guide when sewing the hem later.
With right sides together sew the front and back in-leg seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides together sew the crotch seams together. Start sewing below the base of the fly, sew down to the in-leg seam and continue sewing up the back crotch seam, finishing at the back waist. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the wearers right.
With right sides together sew the front and back side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Neaten the hem with an overlocker/serger and fold the wide hem to the inside. Pin in place and topstitch.
Fold the cuff to the outside where previously pressed and pin in place. Sew a small stitch to the side seam and the inseam leg seam to hold the cuff in place.
WAISTBAND:
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams of the waistbands together and press open. Note, the longer waistband is sewn to the left front with the fly bearer extension.
With right sides facing sew the two waistbands together along the top edge and down both short ends.
Understitch close to the seam on the side of the inner waistband. Clip the corners and turn out to the right side.
With right sides facing sew the outer waistband to the waist of the pants matching the notches as you sew.
Neaten the lower edge of inner waistband with an overlocker/serger and turn each end (approximately 2cm/¾”) of the inner waistband inward and pin the inner waistband in place. Stitch the waistband down with a stitch in the ditch from the right side of the pant.
Sew a buttonhole to the right waistband and a corresponding button to the left waistband.
Press your new pants!