CONSTRUCTION:
FRONT BODY:
With right sides facing sew the front jacket pieces (3, 4 & 5) together, matching the notches. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press each seam outward. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the side front and centre front panels.
Neaten the outer 3 edges of the pocket facing with an overlocker/serger. With right sides together sew the pocket facing (15) to the stepped area of the front body. Clip the corners, turn to the inside side and press. Sew a 1cm (3/8″) topstitch around the sewn edge.
With right sides together sew the pocket flaps (14) together around the three outer edges. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press. Sew a twin needle topstitch around the sewn edges of the pocket flaps.
Sew the raw edge of the pocket flap to the base of the front yoke (17) between the notches marked on the pattern.
Neaten the outer edges of the front pocket pieces (16) with an overlocker/serger. Place the front pocket piece behind the front body with the right side facing the right side of the pocket facing. Use the notches and pocket outline marked on the pattern as a placement guide. Pin the pocket and facing together to the front body. Once in place sew around the outer edges of the pocket. The pocket will be on the inside of the jacket therefore only this topstitching on the front body will show.
Sew the front yoke (17) to the front body (3, 4 & 5). Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam upward. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the yoke.
Neaten the centre front edge of the front body with an overlocker/serger, alternatively you can double turn this edge and press in preparation for topstitching. Fold the front turnback at the fold line marked on the pattern so that the right sides are together. At the neckline, sew from the fold to the notch marked ‘collar’ on the pattern. Clip the corner, turn out to the right side and press the front turnback along the fold line. You will now have created a step at the neckline and a turnback to house the buttonholes/buttons.
Sew a single topstitch along the overlocked/double turned inner edge of the turnback.
WELT POCKETS:
With right sides on the outer, press the pocket welt piece (19) in half lengthways and stay stitch along the cut edges to hold in place.
Sew the welt to the side front where marked on the pattern, with the raw edges facing the centre front.
With right sides facing sew the pocket bag (17) along the welt stitch line, turn to the right side, press the seam towards the front and sew a contrast edge stitch beside the length of the welt on the side of the body.
With right side facing sew the pocket bearer (18) above the welt seam.
Cut into the corners and through the middle >———-<.
Turn the welt out to the right side and post the pocket bag and the bearer through the cut to the inside. Press the angled cut section < & > to the outer and sew through these cut angles catching the welt, pocket bag and bearer together creating a pocket. Edge stitch along the sewn long edge. Sew the outer edges of the pocket bag and bearer together to create a pocket. Neaten around the pocket with an overlocker/serger. Edgestitch along the top and bottom of the welt.
Sew the back panel (1) to the side back panels (2) matching the notches. Neaten each seam with an overlocker/serger and press the seams outward. Sew a twin needed topstitch on the side of the side back panels.
With right sides facing sew the back yoke (6) to the back body (1 & 2). Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam upward. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the yoke.
With right side facing sew the shoulder seams of the back and front yokes together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the back yoke.
COLLAR:
With right sides facing sew around the 3 outside edges of the collar pieces. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
Pin the outer raw edge of the collar to the neckline, once in place stitch on.
Turn the seam allowance of the remaining inner edge of the collar to the inside and sink stitch (stitch in the ditch) to secure to the neck. Sew a twin needle topstitch around the outer edges of the collar.
SLEEVES & CUFFS:
With right sides together sew the under sleeve (10) to the top sleeve (11). Sew from the top of the sleeve to the split opening. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the front. Sew a twin needle topstitch down to the split opening.
Double turn and press each side of the split opening and sew a single topstitch down the under-sleeve step and a twin needle down the split opening of the top sleeve. Lay the top sleeve over the under-sleeve step and sew a bar tack across the seam to secure in place.
With right sides facing, sew the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the body. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the body.
With right sides together sew the back and front body side seams. Start at the waist of the body, sew up to the underarm and continue sewing down the sleeve seam, finishing at the sleeve opening. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing fold the cuff (12) in half lengthways. Sew across the two short ends. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
With right sides facing sew the raw edge of the outer cuff to the sleeve opening. Turn the seam allowance of the remaining inner cuff to the inside and sink stitch (stitch in the ditch) to secure to the sleeve.
TABS & WAISTBAND:
With right sides facing, fold the waistband tab (13) in half widthways as marked on the pattern and sew the top and bottom seams. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press. Sew a single topstitch around the tab. Sew the raw edge of the tab to the waistband (9) where marked on the pattern, press the tab toward the back and single topstitch the tab to the waistband.
With right sides together, fold the waistband in half lengthways. Sew across the two short ends. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and press.
With the right side of the inner waistband facing the wrong side of the body sew the inner waistband to the waist of the body matching the notches as you go. Press the seam allowance of the outer waistband to the inside. Pin
the waistband in place to the body and stitch down with a contrast edge stitch which continues all the way around the waistband.
Buttonhole the right front, cuffs, pocket flaps and the waistband tabs as marked on the pattern. Sew the buttons in line to match the buttonholes.
Press your new jacket!