CONSTRUCTION:
KNIT INNER BIKE SHORT:
With right sides facing sew the Inner Front (6) panels together along the centre front crotch seam. Topstitch with a twin needle, cover stitch or plain machine top stitch if desired. Repeat these steps for the Inner Back (8) panels.
Fold and hem the knit Pocket (10) openings at the notches. Place the pockets on top of the Inner Side (7) panels, line up at the notches and pin together, then sew each side of the pockets with a stay stitch.
With right sides facing attach the side panels with pockets to the Inner Front side seam. Repeat for each side and then for the Inner Back side seams. Topstitch with a twin needle, cover stitch or plain machine top stitch if desired.
With right sides together match the knit Gusset (9) panel to the front in-leg seam and sew together. Start at one side of leg opening, sew over centre front crotch join and finish at the other leg opening. Repeat for back. Topstitch with a twin needle, cover stitch or plain machine top stitch if desired.
Fold the hem to the inside at the 15mm (5/8”) notch and topstitch with a twin needle, zig zag or other stitch suitable for stretch fabric. The side panel/pocket will have 2 layers at the hem.
WOVEN OUTER SHORT:
With right sides facing sew the Front Hem (3) and Back Hem (4) pieces together at the in-leg seam. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back. NOTE: The widest side is at the side seam.
With right sides facing sew the Front (1) and Back (2) together at the in-leg seam. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the hem pieces to the front and back legs. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam up. Sew an edge stitch on top of the seam on the side of the main short.
With right sides facing sew the centre front crotch seams together, continuing to the back crotch seams and finishing at the centre back waist. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press to the wearers right,
edgestitch along the crotch seam if desired.
Double turn the side openings and the leg hems and press. *Note – the side seams are not joined and are overlapped.
ATTACHING LAYERS
Overlap the outer side panels according to the notches matching the side seam point. Lay the front panels on top of the back panels. Secure with a stay stitch along top edge.
With right sides facing out place the knit inner shorts inside the outer woven shorts. Secure CF/CB and side seam points with pins and sew together along top
edge, stretching the knit shorts to fit the waist of the outer woven short as you sew.
WAISTBAND AND COMPLETION
With right sides facing join the short ends of the waistbands at the side seams and press the seams open. With right sides on the outer, fold the waistband in half lengthways and press. The pressed line will be a guide for
the top of the elastic.
Overlap the ends of the elastic by 2cm (1”) and stitch together securely with 2 x rows of plain stitch. Mark the elastic at 4 equal quarters (fold in half, then in half again to find the quarters).
Place the elastic up inside the folded waistband, match the join to one side seam, then match each quarter mark with CF, CB and side seam of the shorts and pin in place. This is to achieve an even spread of elastic.
Sew through all layers of waistband and elastic following the lines marked on the pattern. Stretch the elastic when sewing to flatten the fabric and use a medium-long stitch length. Sew a stay stitch to the lower edges of the waistband to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the waistband to both layers of the short, stretching the elastic as you sew and matching the CF, CB and side seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the waist seam down. Sew an edge stitch on top of the seam on the side of the short.
Press the garment all over and you are finished!