CONSTRUCTION:
POCKETS:
Click here to watch an Instagram reel of how to sew inseam pockets.
BODY:
With right sides facing sew the front panel to the side panel, start at the underarm, sew through the under pocket taking care not to catch the front pocket opening as you sew and continue sewing down to the hem.
Neaten with an overlocker/serger, press the seam towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the back panel to the side panel matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
SLEEVES:
With right sides facing sew the sleeve seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
With right sides facing sew the sleeves into the armholes matching the notches as you sew. Neaten the seam with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
Neaten the sleeve hem with an overlocker/serger, turn to the inside at the hem notch and pin, once in place sew the hem with a twin needle stitch.
HOOD:
With right sides facing sew the two outer edges of the hood together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press.
Make two buttonholes/eyelets in the hood as marked on the pattern. Reinforce the area with a stabilizer. If your fabric has a lot of movement, e.g. velour we suggest stabilizing the opening of the hood also.
With right sides facing sew the hood to the neck of the body, press the seam towards the hood and sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch around the neck.
With right sides facing sew the short ends of the front facing at the hood together and press seam open.
FACINGS, ZIP & COMPLETION:
With right sides together sew the short ends of the back hem facing to the front hem facings and press the seams open. Neaten the top edge of the hem facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together sew the lower vertical edge of the front facing to the front edge of the hem facing, press the seam towards the front hem facing and edge stitch to hold flat.
With right sides together sew the hem facing and the base of the front facing to the hem of the body. Press the seam and understitch on top of the seam on the side of the facing. Neaten the front facing by turning the seam allowance of the inner edge of the front facing to the inside and topstitch.
Open the zip and starting at the top of the hood opening, pin the right side of the zip tape to the right side of both fronts (depending on the zip length, either to the base of the hem or to the notch above the hem) once in place using a zipper foot sew close to the zip teeth.
With right sides together sew the facing to the front body stitching close to the zip teeth and sandwiching the zip between the front and facing.
With right sides together and starting at the top of the zip sew the hood facing to the hood, clip the corners and turn out to the right side.
Pin the facing to the front and hood seams and sew a 6mm (¼”) topstitch beside the zip, continuing over the hood and down the opposite front.
Pin the neatened edge of the front (hood) facing to the hood, once in place sew a topstitch around the outer edge of the hood facing stopping at the neck seam.
Sew a small hand stitch to join the pocket bag to the front facing to hold the pocket in place.
With wrong sides together pin the base of the front facing and the hem facing to the inside of the body, once in place sew the hem facing to the body with a topstitch.
Lightly press your new jacket.