CONSTRUCTION
FRONT POCKETS:
Double turn the top edge of the coin pocket to the inside and sew down with a twin needle topstitch.
Turn the side edges of the pocket to the inside. Press and pin the coin pocket to the right pocket facing, once in place sew on with a twin needle. Neaten the rounded edges of the pocket facings with an overlocker/serger.
Press the pocket bag in half and sew the pocket facings to the inside of the pocket bags.
With right sides facing, sew the curved edge of the pocket bag to the skirt. Turn the pocket bag to the right side and press. Sew a twin needle topstitch around the curved pocket opening.
Fold the pocket bag over so that the right sides are facing and sew across the base of the pocket bag. Neaten with an overlocker/serger.
Pin the side seams of the pocket bag and the side seam of the front skirt together. Once in place stay stitch across the top of the pocket to hold in place.
FLY & FRONT:
Neaten the left centre front seam with an overlocker/serger, clip the notch indicating the split. Turn the left split seam to the inside once (do not double turn this seam) and sew a twin needle topstitch from the top of the left split to the hemline.
With right sides on the outer, press the fly bearer in half lengthways and stay stitch the raw edges together to hold in place. Neaten the length and base of the bearer with an overlocker/serger.
Sew one side of the zip to the left seam. Sandwich the zip between the left front and the fly bearer and stitch down the length of the zip/fly bearer. Edge stitch close to the zip seam on the side of the left front seam.
Neaten the centre front seam between the base of the zip notch and the split notch and around the rounded edge of the fly facing with an overlocker/serger. With right sides together sew the fly facing to the right front, understitch along the seam on the side of the fly.
With right sides facing sew the centre front seams together from the base of the zip to the top of the split notch and press the seam towards the wearers right.
Pull the zip closed and pin the right side of the zip tape to the fly facing, making sure the left of the zip is covered. Once in place open the zip and sew the zip to the fly facing.
Close the zip and make sure the zip is lying flat. We suggest using the fly facing pattern piece with the seams cut off as a guide for the topstitching. Pin the guide to the right front skirt and mark around the fly facing with chalk. Sew a twin needle topstitch down and around the right front on top of the fly facing from the waist finishing at the centre front seam.
With the zip closed and from the inside sew a stitch to the base of the fly facing and fly bearer to hold in place.
Sew a single needle 6mm (¼”) topstitch down the front starting at the base of the zip down to the top of the split, keeping the left skirt out of the way, continue sewing the topstitch all the way down to the hemline. Topstitch again 6mm (¼”) from the previous topstitching to create a twin needle look topstitch (please note you can’t use a twin needle for this step due to the front split).
Sew a bar tack at the top of the split for reinforcement.
BACK POCKET, YOKE & BACK SKIRT:
Double turn the top of the back pocket to the inside and sew down with a twin needle topstitch.
Press the three outer seams of the pockets to the inside and pin to the back skirt as marked on the pattern. Once in place stitch around the three outer edges with a twin needle topstitch.
With right sides facing sew the back yokes to the back skirts, matching the notches. Press the seams upward and sew a twin needle topstitch on the side of the yoke.
With right sides facing sew the centre back seams together, take care to match the yoke seam as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the wearers left. Sew a twin needle topstitch on the wearers left.
With right sides facing sew the front and back side seams together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press the seam towards the back. Sew an edge stitch close to the seam on the side of the back from the waist down approximately 18cm (7”).
WAISTBAND, BELT LOOPS & COMPLETION:
With right sides facing sew the centre back seams of both waistbands together and press open. Be sure that the longer left waistband is on the left when sewn to the waist of the skirt.
With right sides facing sew the two waistbands together along the top and down the ends. Clip the corners, turn out to the right side and understitch stitch close to the seam on the side of the inner waistband.
With right sides together sew the inner waistband to the waist of the skirt, press the seam upwards.
Press the seam of the top waistband inward and pin the top waistband to the waist seam, once in place sew the seam of the top waistband in place with an edge stitch. Note the left waistband finishes in line with the folded edge of the fly bearer.
Sew an edge stitch along the top of the waistband and down both ends.
Neaten one length of the belt loops with an overlocker/serger. Fold the opposite edge of the belt loop under the overlocked/serged edge and sew an edge stitch down each side of the belt loop. Cut the belt loops in to five 8cm (3 ¼”) lengths pieces, this allows a 1cm (3/8”) seam to turn under for each belt loop.
Press the top and base of the belt loops to the inside and pin the belt loops in place. One belt loop is to be positioned at the centre back and one each side of the side back and side front, refer to the markings on the pattern. Once in place stitch the top of the belt loop to the top of the waistband and the base of the belt loop to the skirt below the waistband.
Neaten the hem of the skirt with an overlocker/serger, turn the hem to the inside and sew with a topstitch.
Buttonhole the right waistband and sew a button to the left waistband.
Press your new skirt.