CONSTRUCTION
FRONT/TUCKS:
Click here to watch an Instagram reel of how to sew the tucks.
With right sides facing pin the 5 tucks to the inside of the front bodices, pin from the shoulder line down to the markings on the pattern followed by tacking the tucks. Once in place sew the tucks, remove the tacking stitch and press the tucks toward the side seams.
Sew an edge close to the seam on the side of the tuck, start sewing at the shoulder line and finish at the base of the tucks with a backstitch and press.
Neaten each centre front edge with an overlocker/serger. With right sides facing sew the centre front seams together stopping at the marked * 6mm (¼”) down from the neck and press the seam open.
With right sides facing sew the shoulder seams together, neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
COLLAR:
With right sides facing sew the three outer edges of the collars together, clip the corners and turn out to the right side.
Understitch as far as you can close the seam on the side of the undercollar.
With the under collar facing the right side of the body sew both raw edges of the collar to the neckline, matching the notches as you sew.
FACING:
With right sides together, sew the front and back facings shoulder seams and press open.
With right sides together sew the centre front seam stopping at the * marking 6mm (¼”) down from the centre front neck and press open.
Neaten the outer edges of the facing with an overlocker/serger.
With right sides together pin the front ‘V’ neck of the facing to the front of the body, once in place start sewing at the centre front * ‘V’ (the seam where the stitch was previously stopped) as this allows for a nice ‘V’ neck shape. Stitch straight up to the neckline from the base of the ‘V’ and repeat for the opposite side. Turn out and understitch close to the seam on the side of the facing.
Leave the neck and the neck facing open so the collar can be sandwiched in between the body and the facing.
With right sides facing sew the neck facing to the neckline sandwiching the collar in between as you sew. Clip the corners.
Turn to the right side and understitch close to the seam on the side of the neck facing.
POCKETS:
With right sides facing sew one set of the pockets to the front side seam where marked on the pattern, clip at the notches and understitch close to the seam on the side of the pocket bag (A).
With right sides facing sew the second set of pockets to the pockets that are sewn to the front side seam, stitch the two pocket bags together creating a pocket (B). Neaten the outer edges of the pockets with an overlocker/serger, note that the straight edge of the under pocket is left free to sew to the back body’s side seam.
With right sides facing sew the front side seam to the to the back side seam, start sewing the seams together at the underarm, sew down the side seam stitching through the straight edge of the back pocket as you sew, be careful not to catch the front pocket opening (A). Once the side seams are sewn neaten with an overlocker/serger and press toward the back.
SLEEVES/CUFFS:
With right sides facing sew the two short ends of the cuffs together and press the seam open. Press in half lengthways with wrong sides facing. Stay stitch the two raw edges together to hold in place.
With right sides facing sew the under sleeves together. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the back.
Sew a large gathering stitch to the head of the sleeve and slightly draw in.
Sew a large gathering stitch to the sleeve opening and draw in to match the length of the cuff.
With right sides facing sew the cuff to the sleeve opening, matching the seams. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press upwards.
With right sides facing sew the sleeve head into the armhole matching the notches as you sew. Neaten with an overlocker/serger and press towards the sleeve.
Sew a small hand stitch to secure the neck facing to the shoulder seams of the body and a hand stitch to the centre front seam of the facing to the centre front seam of the front to hold in place.
Double turn the bottom edge and sew a narrow hem.
Press your new dress.